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Chef-owner Kori Kim serves dressed-up but unfussy fare in a cool space: high ceilings, orange walls warmed by candlelight and grooving world beats. The traditional pajun (scallion pancake) is hot, crisp, and filled with tender squid and shrimp—a good complement to Kim’s duck-and-cabbage salad. Short-rib kalbi are marinated in a citrusy Asian-pear-and-soy puree, then grilled to smoky tenderness. For dessert, try goguma, delicate fried Korean sweet potato drizzled with ginseng syrup.

Venue name: Kori
Address: 253 Church St
New York
Cross street: between Franklin and Leonard Sts
Venue phone: 212-334-0908
Website: http://korinyc.com
Opening hours: Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5–10:30pm; Sat 5:30–11pm
Transport: Subway: 1 to Franklin St
Price: Average main course: $18. AmEx, MC, V
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