Chef-owner Kori Kim serves dressed-up but unfussy fare in a cool space: high ceilings, orange walls warmed by candlelight and grooving world beats. The traditional pajun (scallion pancake) is hot, crisp, and filled with tender squid and shrimp—a good complement to Kim’s duck-and-cabbage salad. Short-rib kalbi are marinated in a citrusy Asian-pear-and-soy puree, then grilled to smoky tenderness. For dessert, try goguma, delicate fried Korean sweet potato drizzled with ginseng syrup.
253 Church St
|Cross street:||between Franklin and Leonard Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5–10:30pm; Sat 5:30–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to Franklin St|
|Price:||Average main course: $18. AmEx, MC, V|