Kum Gang San (CLOSED)

Get over the military efficiency of the service, ignore the fake waterfall, and look past the odd little fruit sculptures that come with the check: This is still a safe bet for reliably good food. Bring a group of 2 or 20 for a business lunch or a wee-hour, hangover-averting coda. Marinated meats, grilled at the table, never disappoint, and the meaty broiled fish—samchi gui (Spanish mackerel) in particular—is moist yet crisp-skinned.