Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House

In 2011, chef Libin Zhang relocated his popular Northern Chinese restaurant into this airy, wood-clad spot. At a back counter, you’ll find Zhang twirling balls of dough into pliant bands for noodle soups, including one with tender slabs of beef brisket and bok choy (niu rou shou la mian). There are also outstanding pork-and-leek pot stickers (xian rou jiu cai guo tie), but don’t miss the hui xiang shui jiao, juicy boiled dumplings stuffed with fragrant fennel-flecked pork.