When this welcoming Tex-Mex place expanded a couple of years ago, the crowds magically expanded, too. The kitchen turns out satisfying border-town specialties like poblano chilies stuffed with beef and cheese, and thick, chocolate-laced moles; the bar produces expertly mixed pitchers of fresh-lime margaritas. Slight missteps like bland shrimp in pumpkin-seed sauce and clunky chocolate mud pie on a recent visit, don’t—and shouldn’t—keep the hordes at bay.