Métisse (CLOSED)

Though the French-Dominican owner who gave Métisse (meaning “mixed race”) its name is gone, this bistro continues to offer Gallic cuisine with a few twists to Columbia affiliates and Upper West Side refugees, who have made its airy dining room their own. Sure, you can begin with escargots sautéed in a garlic, butter and cognac sauce and proceed to an array of moules dishes or the sumptuous steak frites in a lush béarnaise, but Métisse also veers from the straight and narrow: An intriguing ceviche appetizer adroitly complements its diced corvina with banana plantain and guacamole, while a curry béchamel sauce drenches plump sautéed sea scallops. In warm weather, the patio is a splendidly isolated spot for alfresco dining, thanks to Métisse’s sidestreet location.