Mile End Delicatessen

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  • Sandwich shops
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Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Smoked-meat sandwich at Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Breakfast Burger at Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Beef on Weck at Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Poutine at Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Pickled vegetables at Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Mile End Sandwich

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Mile End Sandwich

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The sandwich shop has never had it quite so good in New York. The field is crowded with purists and renegades, with star chefs and career-changing amateurs, all devoting themselves to making food fast, cheap and, most importantly, portable—so many new hoagies, cheese steaks, tortas, banh mi and stuffed Chinese buns.

Mile End Sandwich, which opened recently near the Bowery on Bond Street, follows the same lofty path paved by ’wichcraft, Saltie and No. 7 Sub, to name just a few of its epicurean forebears.

The neon-bright quick-serve operation expands a sandwich program that’s already among the city’s most cultish, building on the opening menu from the first Mile End, across the river on Hoyt Street. The place launched in 2009 as a Montreal-style deli serving smoked-meat sandwiches and Canadian bagels, before adding more ambitious haute juif cuisine.

At their new sandwich-centric spin-off, Noah Bernamoff and wife-partner Rae Cohen offer the classics still served at the original restaurant—the same succulent hand-cut Montreal smoked meat on Orwasher’s rye, the same malty bagels (once trucked in from up north, now baked in-house) piled high with glistening lox. But that’s just where it starts.

The repertoire here, not constrained by geographic allegiance, looks way past Quebec. There’s a fine turkey sandwich—the Grandpa—featuring French and Yiddish accents, with turkey rillettes, smoked white meat, brown mustard and rye. A Middle Eastern number combines fried eggplant, grilled halloumi, sweet roasted peppers and warm flaky flatbread into a vegetarian sandwich that’s complex and robust. Pickled veal tongue on pumpernickel tastes of the Lower East Side, amped up with caramelized onion and sweet raisin jam. And even a Buffalo expat would fall for Mile End’s Roast Beef on Weck—a sandwich that’s like religion in western New York—served here with shaved Wagyu, showered in fresh horseradish, on a properly salt-crusted caraway roll.

Chefly attention to detail permeates every baroque creation, delicious upgrades on old-fashioned combos. The most indulgent handful—and messiest, certainly—turns a veal sausage patty, apple butter, fried egg and house-baked English muffin into a superdeluxe McMuffin of sorts (a “breakfast burger” available anytime). The inspiration is lowbrow, the execution anything but.

The nods to junky fast food are rare, though, at Mile End Sandwich—gravy drenched poutine is about as guilty as it gets.


Eat this: Smoked-meat sandwich, Beef on Weck, bagel and lox, breakfast burger, tongue sandwich, poutine

Drink this: The sandwich shop serves only nonalcoholic beverages, including Virgil’s cream soda and a not-too-sweet, tart and refreshing house-made preserved-lemon soda.

Sit here: Tall stools ring a communal table that runs down the middle of the restaurant. Those are the only seats.

Conversation piece: The Mile End Cookbook, featuring 100 recipes (including step-by-step directions for making Montreal-style smoked meat at home), has just been released.

By Jay Cheshes

Venue name: Mile End Delicatessen
Address: 53 Bond St
New York
Cross street: between Bowery and Lafayette St
Opening hours: Daily 8am–midnight
Transport: Subway: B, D, F, M to Broadway–Lafayette St; N, R to Prince St
Price: Average sandwich: $10. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Do you own this business?

Average User Rating

3.5 / 5

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lily r

Mile End is definitely worth checking out... once. The restaurant is very small and aesthetically bare boned. I'm not sure how popular it is either, but it was fairly dead at 8pm on a Thursday night - not exactly a cool kids vibe, which is odd to find on Bond Street, which is pretty hip. However, there are some highlights on the menu worth visiting for, and the staff is super friendly and attentive; they made us feel very welcome. 

The smoked meat burger is amazing - incredibly flavorful and a unique taste to any burger I've had before. We decided to add on the poutine, which was delicious as well. We also started with the chicken liver to share, which is a very generous serving in a pate style. The pumpernickel bread that comes with it is some of the best I've had in a while. Definitely worth a trip to try these menu items, but because of the lacking atmosphere, I'm not sure I'd visit again. 

Grace I Chen

Smoked meat on top of poutine. What more could a girl ask for? My husband and I frequent Mile End Deli, and I’ve liked everything we’ve ordered. The portions are big, and everything is very flavorful. Not in the mood for meat? The fish and vegetarian options are also delicious. My favorite small bites include the latkes and pickles (which are extra mouth-puckering sour). If you’re visiting for breakfast/brunch, try to Appetizing Platter for Two which comes with a delicious assortment of food to pair with Black Seed Bagels. You get some extra Tip: If you’re ordering the smoked-meat sandwich, make sure you ask for 50/50 mix of meat. That way you ensure you’re getting enough fatty pieces of meat.