The quirky décor with early 1900s objects and carbon filament bulbs is one aspect of this South Williamsburg hangout that attracts droves of loyal patrons. The focused, affordable Italian-accented menu is another. Bulgarian feta, soppressata and mint constitute a modern antipasti, while warm lentils form a satisfying starter when paired with a fig-walnut crouton. Among the mains, the chicken dijonaise has all the hallmarks of a classic bistro plate, but the kitchen takes risks as well, seen in the pork ribs rubbed with herbs de Provence and enlivened by a squeeze of lime. The quarters are tight, and the nightly jazz/swing bands blend well with the rumble of the elevated train outside.
|Cross street:||at Hooper St|
|Opening hours:||Daily 6pm–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: J, M to Hewes St; G to Broadway|
|Price:||Average main course: $14. Cash only|