Rather than benefiting from the fresh touch provided by new chef Craig Hopson (Picholine), the staid eatery has subsumed him. Hopson’s attempt to modernize the menu translates into a lack of nuance: A cloying pineapple sauce doomed an appetizer of grilled sepia with Thai basil; John Dory, with an odd mustard-lemon-tomato chutney, didn’t quite jell. Even desserts faltered: That epitome of romantic sweets, the chocolate soufflé, was dense and dry. When love is blind, so, it seems, are palates.
One if by Land, Two if by Sea
|Venue name:||One if by Land, Two if by Sea|
17 Barrow St
|Cross street:||between Seventh Ave South and W 4th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 5:30–11:30pm; Fri, Sat 5:15pm–midnight; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm, 5:30–11:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq|
|Price:||Three-course prix fixe: $78. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|