One if by Land, Two if by Sea

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Rather than benefiting from the fresh touch provided by new chef Craig Hopson (Picholine), the staid eatery has subsumed him. Hopson’s attempt to modernize the menu translates into a lack of nuance: A cloying pineapple sauce doomed an appetizer of grilled sepia with Thai basil; John Dory, with an odd mustard-lemon-tomato chutney, didn’t quite jell. Even desserts faltered: That epitome of romantic sweets, the chocolate soufflé, was dense and dry. When love is blind, so, it seems, are palates.

Venue name: One if by Land, Two if by Sea
Contact:
Address: 17 Barrow St
New York
10014
Cross street: between Seventh Ave South and W 4th St
Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5:30–11:30pm; Fri, Sat 5:15pm–midnight; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm, 5:30–11:30pm
Transport: Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq
Price: Three-course prix fixe: $78. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
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