While starstruck diners try to catch a glimpse of Perilla toque and Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle, food-minded folk can enjoy a small menu of upscale American standards (duck meatballs, sautéed skate wing) in the comfortable dining room, with handsome wooden tables and fans spinning on a pressed-tin ceiling. Doughnuts with lemon-fennel curd made a fine ending to a polished debut.
9 Jones St
|Cross street:||between Bleecker and W 4th Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 5:30–11pm; Fri 5:30–11:30pm; Sat 11am–2:30pm, 5:30–11:30pm; Sun 11am–2:30pm, 5–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, M to W 4th St; 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $25. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|