Squeezing into this tiny eatery is as rewarding as ever, even if founding toque Mario Batali is but a distant memory. Chef Lee McGrath invents new dishes nightly—you might encounter tortellini filled with feta and asparagus, or aioli-brushed skirt steak atop tart baby tomatoes. If the à la carte options overwhelm, a six-course tasting menu is a steal at $50.
31 Cornelia St
|Cross street:||between Bleecker and W 4th Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon, Tue 5:30–11pm; Wed, Thu 11:30am–2:30pm, 5:30–11pm; Fri, Sat 11:30am–2:30pm, 5:30–11:30pm; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm, 5–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, V to W 4th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $19. AmEx|