Ramen Yebisu (CLOSED)

New York City’s ramen craze has made anthropologists out of some local chefs, who continue to discover and re-create countless obscure variations on the Japanese noodle dish. The latest culinary artifact: abura soba, or “oil noodles,” a ramen served without soup and topped with an unctuous soy-based sauce. The dish is a house speciality at Ramen Yebisu, where it is tossed with roasted pork, scallions and soy sauce. You can also sample the namesake yebisu ramen (named for the Japanese god of fishing), which features a light seafood broth floating chunks of lobster and prawn.