This temple of turf balances the masculine aesthetic of an old-timey steakhouse (Peter Luger) with the wide, more-than-just-a-meatery selection of a modern arriviste (Strip House). Porterhouse, filet mignon and rib eye are dry-aged on site, crisply charred and fork-tender; nonmeat options, including a pristine seafood platter of chilled lobster, crabmeat and shrimp, are similarly excellent. You’ll pay dearly for a meal here, but you do save yourself a trip to Williamsburg.