Pub cheese with Martin’s “potato chips” at Alder
A chip able to withstand the weight of any dip is as rare as a sober Lohan—timid tortillas crack under chunky guac, flimsy Lay’s fall limp against French onion dip. Not so with the hefty chips at Wylie Dufresne’s East Village gastropub. The madcap chef smooshes Martin’s potato rolls through a pasta maker and then bakes them until shatteringly crunchy, pairing the golden-brown “chips” with a creamy smear of port-infused cheddar. The nutty shards stand up to the silky-smooth spread, with chewy crumbles of sweet pistachio-fig brittle adding even more textural contrast with this brainy bar snack. 157 Second Ave between 9th and 10th Sts (212-539-1900, aldernyc.com). $11.
Kimchi carbonara with Doritos at King Noodle
This neon-lit Bushwick noodle shop is an all-out psychedelic trip—shiny disco balls, pulsing synth beats and Crayola-bright walls—and its zany fusion bowl fits right in. The brainchild of chef Nick Subic (Roberta’s), the steaming lo mein noodles are available heavily dusted with pulverized dollar-bag Doritos, their zesty nacho-cheese coating melting into a supremely velvety carbonara sauce of eggs and Parmesan cheese. Fatty bacon bits and kimchi brine add umami depth, elevating the noodles from stoner dorm experiment to something so crazy, it works. 1045 Flushing Ave between Morgan Ave and Vandervoort Pl, Bushwick, Brooklyn (718-456-6543, kingnoodlebk.com). $15.
Potato chips with crème fraîche and chive at Betony
At this New American restaurant from two Eleven Madison Park alums, the whisper-thin wafers have all the familiarity of corner-deli sour-cream-and-onion chips, but with a sophistication well above those grease-lined snack bags. Chef Bryce Shuman dehydrates pureed russets on a Silpat baking mat until crisp, sealing the resulting potato tuile with desiccant (a drying agent) to remove excess moisture. The rough-edged pieces are crowned with a sprinkle of tangy sour-cream powder and crème fraîche bavarois (pudding) imbued with cayenne and lime. Purple chive blossoms add color to the pale, modernist plate. 41 W 57th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves (212-465-2400, betony-nyc.com). $7.
Octopus carpaccio with crispy potatoes at Cull & Pistol
At the Lobster Place crew’s Chelsea Market oyster bar, octo carpaccio and potato chips are like symbiotic BFFs. Bouley alum Dave Seigal molds the eight-armed sea creature into a terrine, and then slices it razor-thin into salami-like rounds. Fanned out beneath a refreshing salad of crisp arugula, ripe grapefruit wedges and bright lemon citronette, the sweet carpaccio gets a salty hit from the nest of crushed house-made chips on top, their well-browned crunch adding delicious bite to the buttery octopus. 75 Ninth Ave at 15th St (646-568-1223, cullandpistol.com). $15.
Tiradito de atun with potato crunch at Desnuda
Chef Dominic Martinez goes baroque for his chip-topped tuna tiradito at this Williamsburg cevicheria. Supple yellowfin slices are drizzled with a savory-sweet glaze of truffle, tart yuzu and zippy shishito peppers. Potato “crunch” on top is a taste-bud-sparing reprieve from the pickled jalapeños and red onion, balancing out the dish’s acidity with some vital salt. 221 South 1st St at Roebling St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-387-0563, desnudany.com). $19.
The potato chip—that salty snack we’ve all spent many a couchbound day munching—was supposedly born right here in New York State (Saratoga Springs, to be exact). The 19th-century creation—attributed to George Crum of Moon’s Lake House—eventually spread beyond chef-cooked fare to become a by-the-bag snacktime favorite, but now chips (potato and otherwise) are going back to their restaurant roots, popping up in brand-new kitchens around NYC. These days, you can find Dorito-covered carbonara in Bushwick, a whimsical number by Wylie Dufresne and a finespun take from Eleven Madison Park alums.