Renovations at the Essex House included this hotel-restaurant shake-up: out with the stuffy (Alain Ducasse), in with the sleek. The setting for chef Kerry Heffernan’s (Eleven Madison Park) Tony Chi–designed eatery is indeed striking; his food, however, is strikingly off. A calamari appetizer was ruined by a congealed lobster-coriander gravy, and sautéed red snapper was overwhelmed by anchovies in the too-potent celery sauce. Desserts (like a pretty pot de crème) fared better but couldn’t redeem the mediocre menu. Ducasse may have been bunkerlike, but South Gate isn’t even in the same league.
|Venue name:||South Gate||Contact:|
154 Central Park South
|Cross street:||between Sixth and Seventh Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 5:30–10pm; Fri, Sat 5:30–10:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: F to 57th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $28. AmEx, MC, V|
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