Strip House, which replaced one of New York’s stalest restaurants (Asti, home of the singing waiters) a decade ago now tastes a bit stale itself. The bordello décor is no longer a novelty, and new executive chef John Schenk turns out food that too often misfires. Appetizers such as garlic bread sticks over a thin Gorgonzola cream sauce that tries to pass itself off as fondue, and over-caramelized scallops in a gruel-like corn-and-soybean chowder. Schenk delivers his red meat spicy: even ordered unadorned, the sirloin, available at 16 ounces or with the bone at 20 ounces, seems au poivre; a veal T-bone, meanwhile, tastes acutely a heavily salted fried egg. Strip House, it seems, still has the beef, but it’s lost some of the intangibles that kept it among the city’s better steak palaces.
|Venue name:||Strip House|
13 E 12th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth Ave and University Pl|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Sat 5–11:30pm; Sun 5–10:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: L, N, Q, R, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St–Union Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $38. AmEx, MC, V|