Strip House
Time Out says
Wed Feb 24 2010
Strip House, which replaced one of New York’s stalest restaurants (Asti, home of the singing waiters) a decade ago now tastes a bit stale itself. The bordello décor is no longer a novelty, and new executive chef John Schenk turns out food that too often misfires. Appetizers such as garlic bread sticks over a thin Gorgonzola cream sauce that tries to pass itself off as fondue, and over-caramelized scallops in a gruel-like corn-and-soybean chowder. Schenk delivers his red meat spicy: even ordered unadorned, the sirloin, available at 16 ounces or with the bone at 20 ounces, seems au poivre; a veal T-bone, meanwhile, tastes acutely a heavily salted fried egg. Strip House, it seems, still has the beef, but it’s lost some of the intangibles that kept it among the city’s better steak palaces.
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