Octopus pastrami at Batard
Porcelet at Clement
Crab flan at Beautique
Chorizo-crusted scallops at Tessa
Pistols on horseback at Cull & Pistol
Lamb porterhouse at Barchetta
At Bâtard (239 West Broadway at White St, 212-219-2777), the swank Corton replacement from Drew Nieporent and John Winterman, chef-partner Markus Glocker (Gordon Ramsay at the London) offers two takes on the meat-and-fish model: mild Kusshi oysters crowned with fried pigs’ tails, laid on a peppercorn-studded salt bed; and a standout pastrami-spiced octopus number, winkingly served with grainy Pommery mustard, shredded ham hock and toasty tears of rye bread to evoke the deli-case standard ($55 for two courses, $65 for three, $75 for four).
Poulpe meets pig in the Peninsula Hotel’s dining room, Clement (700 Fifth Ave at 55th St, 212-903-3918), where Asiate alum Brandon Kida winds a charred octopus tentacle around succulent slabs of crackle-skinned porcelet ($32), served with dashi-stock-cooked white beans and a tide pool of chimichurri sauce. Hearty cubes of pork belly also stud a seafood stunner at French-accented Beautique (8 W 58th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves, 212-753-1200), lending crispy contrast to chef Craig Hopson’s bowl of rich malt-caramel-topped crab flan ($18), while his seared scallops come shellacked with Pollock dollops of foamy foie-gras sabayon and diablo sauce ($32).
For their own bivalve renditions, chef Cedric Tovar (Rosemary’s, Bobo) bookends tender scallops with a robust chorizo crust ($28) at Mediterranean tavern Tessa (349 Amsterdam Ave between 76th and 77th Sts, 212-390-1974), and at Chelsea Market seafoodery Cull & Pistol (75 Ninth Ave at 15th St, 646-568-1223) Jean-Georges vet Dave Seigal serves a play on angels on horseback, wrapping Chesapeake fried oysters with salty Surryano ham and serving the bundle atop parsley-and-chive crepes with smoked aioli ($12).
And “fish whisperer” Dave Pasternack makes good on his nickname with the rustic lamb porterhouse at sea-to-table Chelsea trattoria Barchetta (461 W 23rd St between Ninth and Tenth Aves, 212-255-7400), lacquering the grilled meat with briny, brawny Sicilian anchovy vinaigrette.
Sorry, Red Lobster—this is how you surf and turf.