The Fat Radish

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Photograph: Daniel Krieger
The Fat Radish
Lower East Side
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With its flattering lighting and model-friendly menu, the Fat Radish is catnip for downtown dandies and other denizens of the fashion flock. But while the sceney restaurant—the brick-and-mortar debut of Silkstone catering—draws the same crowd as the stylish parties its owners have nourished since 2008, the Anglo-leaning cooking is short on substance. Conscientious salads and appetizers like an earthy celery-root potpie reminded us of dinner-party fare. Even the more exciting entrées, such as monkfish vindaloo, taste like home-cooking improv—all sweet and no heat, curried fish neutered for timid palates. As a healthy alternative to most restaurant cooking, the food overall isn’t really that bad. But with serious pricing, it probably ought to be better.
Venue name: The Fat Radish
Address: 17 Orchard St
New York

Cross street: between Canal and Hester Sts
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 5:30pm–midnight; Sat 11am–4pm, 5:30pm–midnight; Sun 11am–4pm, 5:30–10pm
Transport: Subway: B, D to Grand St
Price: Average main course: $17. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
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