Geoffrey Zakarian’s clubby gem is a throwback to New York’s fine-dining heyday—a place built for conversation and a languid meal. While chefs around town focus on being seasonally nimble, the veteran toque labors hard to create signature dishes, working and reworking until each one’s a keeper. Timeless expense-account fare includes lushly marbled foie gras torchon served with pureed quince and Concord grape jam, and a supple pine-nut–encrusted lamb saddle cooked optimally pink from end to end. While homey sweets—like hard-as-rocks butter-pecan profiteroles—were less enticing, Sasha Petraske’s serious cocktails (including one of the city’s best White Russians) offer an inspired end to a meal. Sip on your drink while listening to live jazz in the mezzanine bar on Wednesday evenings or at Sunday brunch.
The Lambs Club
|Venue name:||The Lambs Club|
132 W 44th St
|Cross street:||between Sixth and Seventh Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 7am–11pm, Fri 7am–midnight, Sat 11am–midnight, Sun 11am–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: N, Q, R, 42nd St S, 1, 2, 3, 7 to 42nd St–Times Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $28. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|