The Queens Kickshaw

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Photograph: Donald Yip
The Queens Kickshaw
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Serious java draws caffeine fiends to this airy café, which also specializes in grilled-cheese sandwiches. While the pedigreed beans—from Tarrytown, New York’s Coffee Labs Roasters—are brewed with Hario V60 drip cones and a La Marzocco Strada espresso machine, there’s no coffee-snob tude here. Of the fancy grilled-cheese choices, the simplest riffs are best: One morning offering features soft egg folded with ricotta, a Gruyère crisp and maple hot sauce between two thick, buttery slices of brioche. But the simple pleasure of bread and melted cheese is obscured by baroque ingredients in some of the more creative options, such as a Gruyère on rye—the nutty cheese is overwhelmed by pickled and caramelized onions, plus piquant whole-grain mustard. Stick to the basics and you'll do fine.
Venue name: The Queens Kickshaw
Address: 40-17 Broadway
Cross street: between Steinway and 41st Sts
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 7:30am–1am; Sat, Sun 9am–1am
Transport: Subway: M, R to Steinway St
Price: Average sandwich: $10. Cash only
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