Thirty One

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Photograph: Sean Ellingson
Astoria
If Astoria’s trattoria competition has intensified, credit the Verde brothers, Saverio and Ciro. Their ambitious enterprise (right at the mouth of the N-W line) is bustling starting at dawn, as the busy staff bags frittatas, pizza and panini for take out. Customers are ushered like VIPs down a hallway into a spare, lovely dining room lined with wine racks. The kitchen is equally Old World, sending out dishes rich with earthy country flavor. Options include truffle-oil-drizzled focaccia, thin-crust pizza (try the Thirty One, with robiola cheese), and sturdier dishes like polenta with mushrooms and Gorgonzola; black linguini with seafood in peppery arrabbiata sauce; and polletto al forno, a brick-oven-roasted bird.
Venue name: Thirty One
Contact:
Address: 22-48 31st St
Queens
11105-27
Cross street: between Ditmars Blvd and 23rd St
Opening hours: 7am–11pm
Transport: Subway: N to Ditmars Blvd
Price: Average main course: $19. AmEx, DC Disc, MC, V
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