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When chef Joseph D’Angelo, an alum of such stellar kitchens as Union Square Cafe and Esca, wanted to open his own restaurant, his father had a better idea: Run the family’s pizza joints instead. The younger D’Angelo took up the challenge, adding a white-tablecloth dining room to his minichain’s Upper East Side location. Today, locals stop in to grab a slice or a stromboli to go, while diners linger over bowls of pasta and lovingly prepared Italian specialties. The pancetta-wrapped shrimp appetizer is surpassingly tender, the pizza crust is crisp with vibrant tomato sauce, and the meat dishes are enhanced with fresh ingredients. In season, satisfy your soft-shell-crab jones—order the crustaceans fried; they’ll be served on a bed of wilted greens and cherry tomatoes, with a balsamic reduction that reinforces the sweetness of the meat.