Matsugen (CLOSED)

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Japanese eatery covers familiar territory (sushi, homemade tofu and so on) but its deft preparation by brothers Masa and Yoshi Matsushita makes the sleek, upscale restaurant feel fresh. Soba is the focus—the exemplary noodles are hand-pulled daily—but there’s also excellent tempura (four delicately battered shrimp were as sweet and meaty as lobster tails) and shabu-shabu, including an extravagant Wagyu beef version. For dessert, try the mochi sundae, layered with the toothsome nuggets and brown sugar syrup—a comforting finale to a blockbuster meal.

Read our full review of Matsugen.