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A new chef at the West Village’s fashion-waif clubhouse, Bobo, has done little to improve its food. Patrick Connolly (previously of Radius in Boston) delivers an odd brand of kitchen-sink fusion featuring jarring combinations. Raw jalapeño comes draped atop a date in an amuse-bouche; red chilies are sprinkled with bacon and greens on a gluey gnocchi starter. Only the desserts, including an indulgent chocolate layer cake with salted caramel frosting, seem to be on the upswing. The downstairs bar area has been transformed into Bobo’s new “den,” but the multitude of fried offerings (all with a chalky aftertaste) and overcooked signature burger did little to seduce us.
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