The lovely, almost pastoral Villa Bertramka, a former vineyard manor house that has now been restored to its 18th-century glory, seems a world apart from the modern hustle and bustle of the district in which it sits. It's easy to imagine Mozart strolling the two-tiered garden on the hill behind it, as the strains of Don Giovanni's overture popped into his head the night before its 1787 première in the Nostitz Theatre (now the Estates Theatre). And indeed, Mozart stayed here several times as a guest of the villa's owners, composer František Dušek and his wife Josefína. These days, Bertramka showcases memorabilia relating to Mozart and the Dušeks, including personal keepsakes, musical instruments, manuscripts and letters. His music still inhabits the place, an invariable feature of the many concerts here; those in the open air, in particular, are something to savour. The courtyard café remains relatively undisturbed by tour groups.