Dating back to the 15th century, this - management will tell you - is the oldest hotel in Europe. Former guests range from Renaissance poet Ariosto to Jean-Paul Sartre. Rooms are fresh and uncluttered, with tiled floors and frescoes. All bathrooms have whirlpool baths. Ask for one of the rooms at the front for superb views over the Pantheon; otherwise console yourself by seeking out the glorious roof terrace where breakfast is served in the warmer months.