Just off delightful piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the Santa Maria opened in 2000 on the site of a 16th-century convent and has since built up a loyal clientele. The bedrooms have tiled floors, slightly bland peach decor and spacious bathrooms. They all open on to a charming, sunny central courtyard planted with orange trees. Bikes are available for guests to explore Trastevere's winding alleys. As this guide went to press, a sister hotel, the Residenza San Callisto - smaller, but with similar amenities and the same rates - was due to open nearby.