12 places locals love to eat and drink at in Hoi An

Asia is rife with overtourism, and it rings especially true for the lantern-lined alleys and sunflower-gold shophouses of Hoi An. Every year, millions of travellers disembark their buses and peruse picturesque Old Town.

But if you step outside its cobbled sidewalks and touristy tailor shops, you’ll find a different version of Hoi An — where the locals hang out. I’ve been living in this dreamy ancient town on and off for six years. So, I tapped some of the town’s local food and beverage experts to find out where they like to savour and sip in and around Hoi An.

Where to eat in Hoi An 

1. Mi Quang 92

Go to Mi Quang 92 for the town’s best mi quang, a regional turmeric-infused noodle dish, suggests Linh D, co-owner of Good Eats, Lagom, Shimai, Kaymai and Fika. Most places do it with pork and shrimp, and they do it with fish or beef. “I always get the fish; it has no bones, so it's tender, marinated well, and the herb that comes with it is so fresh. It’s so nice when I combine it with a glass of orange juice,” she says. 

2. Quán Xanh

Quán Xanh is a place I go with my friends, Linh D. says. “You can order a roast pork belly or a big grilled fish covered in herbs and leaves. It takes 45-minutes to come to the table, but it’s worth it. It’s local, and you’re surrounded by Vietnamese people drinking and cheers-ing. Go with at least three friends and get there by 6 pm to get a table.”

3. Mango Rooms

For something more upscale, Mari Hoerstad, co-owner of Hill Station, Lim Dining Room, Vincognito, Hidden Thaiger and Em’s Bakery, recommends Mango Rooms. “The location is very nice for sundowners along the river. And I love the fusion food there, it's Vietnamese, but it’s more Southeast Asian fusion and Chef Duc is very good at using really, really high-quality ingredients,” she says. “All of his smoked dishes are very special because he smokes them himself. My favourite is smoked duck with tortillas and condiments that are Vietnamese.”

4. 127 Cua Dai

Pho is a must in Vietnam, and for Thu Tran Hoang, head chef at Tok, the best place in town is 127 Cua Dai. “They only make pho bo (beef pho) here. They use beef bones, herbs, and onions, so it has a very tasty, clear broth. I got around 8 or 9 am in the morning, and around 10 am it's finished,” she warns.

5. Banh Xeo Hai Dao

For bahn xeo, a crispy Vietnamese crepe typically filled with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, Hoang also recommends Banh Xeo Hai Dao. “It is so good because they use less oil, and it’s still crispy. It’s healthier, and they use more herbs besides just lettuce and coriander. They have a lot of mixture inside that makes it more flavorful than the average banh xeo.”

6. Tok

Hoerstad recommends Tok for dinner. “I love the location overlooking the paddy fields, and they change all year round. It’s quiet and peaceful and outside of Old Town, so it feels like a destination that is worth the trip, she says.

Where to drink in Hoi An 

7. Café Slow

In Vietnam, coffee is an all-day beverage. “I go to Café Slow once a week for a cappuccino and a slice of toast with strawberry jam,” says Linh D. “I usually go around 8 a.m. when the sun isn’t too strong, and I can drive through the garden and see people picking the veggies and watering the garden. At that time, the cafe is still quiet, and not too many people are taking photos or group tours coming through the gardens,” she says. 

8. Sinh To Tam

In the morning, Hoang goes to Sinh To Tam, a juice stand at the corner of Ba Le Market, “It’s super fresh fruit with many kinds of juice. I order fresh coconut, healthy orange juice or ginger and orange. Sometimes I like to drink aloe vera blended up. It refreshes the body,” she says.

9. Market Bar

Market Bar is a must-visit for Hoerstad. “It’s great for sunset overlooking the river with sofas you can sink into (always make a reservation for the couch). The staff are nice, and I love the infused gin cocktails. The pho one is my favourite. When I introduce it to people, they say “what!?” and most people really like it. It’s the herbs and the spices,” she says.

10. Sky Beer

Sky Beer is a really local place, says Hoang. “They’re open late, and I get out of work at 10 pm, so I go here with friends. I like having a Huda beer and some deep-fried tofu that you roll up with herbs and dip into a strong sauce. They have many small dishes to go with beer, like grilled pork belly.”

11. Hill Station

“I like the happy hour at Hill Station,” says Linh D. “It’s a go-to place. Camembert cheese with a baguette and mango with a glass of wine or a beer. It’s great for people watching, I like to have the cider there,” she says.

12. Mezcal Cocteleria

Hoerstad also loves Mezcal Cocteleria, “It’s got this big city vibe that makes it special in Hoi An. It’s almost like a speakeasy, a bit hidden with a small sign up the stairs and into this dark room that is a wow feeling,” she says. “All of the cocktails are amazing, I find them really sophisticated and complex in flavours.”

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