I explored Indonesia's Komodo Islands by sailing ship – and nothing else compares

"Dolphins!" The shout ripples across the deck during our post-dive downtime. Within seconds, we're pressed against the rail, watching a mother and calf skim the hull while a larger pod arrows towards a patch of churning sea. Seabirds spiral overhead in a feeding frenzy. It's day four aboard the Mutiara Laut, and as usual, Komodo is showing off.

Komodo National Park sits in Indonesia's Lesser Sunda Islands and is fast rising on the global travel radar. Its fame is split between land and sea: the fearsome Komodo dragons and some of the most exhilarating dive sites in the country. It’s quieter than Bali but growing more accessible thanks to new direct flights and a crop of luxury hotels.

I've visited Komodo before, drawn to dives like the famous Shotgun, a thrilling drift dive that shoots you through a narrow channel between two islands; Crystal Rock, a superb pinnacle dive teeming with giant schools of fish; and Manta Point – self-explanatory. Like most travellers, I based myself in Labuan Bajo and joined a jam-packed day trip to visit the highlights: Padar Island, Rinca Island, Pink Beach, and manta cleaning stations. Gorgeous, yes – but less enjoyable when you’re packed onto a small boat with 20 strangers and hustled from stop to stop. So when the chance to sail on the Mutiara Laut came up, I didn’t hesitate.

First, what is the Mutiara Laut?

Meaning "pearl of the sea" in Bahasa, the Mutiara Laut is a luxury schooner designed with the romance of 19th-century sailing ships in mind. A gleaming white beauty with twin masts and classic lines, it's easily one of the most striking boats on Komodo's jewel-toned waters. It hosts up to fourteen guests across seven cabins – there were just nine guests on my voyage – enough to feel sociable, yet intimate enough for each of us to find a corner of the deck to ourselves. 

The itineraries read like a Komodo greatest hits, but stretched over days rather than hours. There are long, unhurried stretches with no other boats in sight, afternoons spent anchored off quiet islands, and swims at deserted beaches you can claim as your own. If you've ever wanted to explore this UNESCO-protected archipelago without sharing the moment with 200 other people wielding selfie sticks, this is the way. 

What are the cabins and onboard spaces like?

It’s easy to forget you’re even on a boat once you step into the cabins. They're spacious, warmly-lit, all timber and textiles, with plenty of storage, a queen-sized bed, and a surprisingly roomy couch for lounging. The bathrooms are compact but blessed with hot showers that feel downright decadent after a day of salt and sand. Air conditioning hums quietly through the night, and once you burrow into the thick sheets, the gentle sway of the ship lulls you straight to sleep.

Most of life, though, unfolds on deck. There are terraced lounging areas with daybeds, shaded reading spots, and a long dining table for breezy lunches between diving stops. My favourite perch: one of the deck chairs facing out towards the ocean, where I can watch the glassy waves and grass-carpeted hills roll by. Fellow guests in the master cabin even get their own open-air terrace at the stern. 

What do you actually do all day?

As much or as little as you want to – that's the beauty. A lot of the trip's personality comes from Arie, our cruise director, who plans our route with almost eerie precision: timing the big-name spots before or after the day-tripper surge, then slipping away just as the crowds arrive. 

All activities are optional. There are usually two dives a day, but you can snorkel if you don't have a scuba license. Dive briefings come with charming hand-drawn maps showing currents, depth lines, and coral formations. Komodo is known for tricky currents, but the team carefully picks sites that balance thrill and safety.

We spot manta rays almost right off the bat: two majestic rays show up on the first day, sweeping in close to our group in a graceful dance. The rest of the days melt into a rhythm of leisurely hikes, laid-back meals, and long, sun-warmed stretches on the deck. We stalk Komodo dragons on Rinca, summit Padar Island for its iconic trio of sweeping bays, and drop off at a gorgeous sandbar for a swim and snorkel. 

There are experiences you won't get anywhere else: a sunset picnic and volleyball match on a postcard-perfect beach, mini bar included; and a beautifully set BBQ dinner on our final night, complete with a grill station, fairy lights, and a surprise performance. It's a magical evening of easy camaraderie that perfectly wraps up the trip. 

Is it worth the money?

This is firmly in the "splurge" category, but it's also a rare kind of luxury: unhurried and intimate, with a liberating "choose your own adventure" spirit. The price folds in meals, activities, gear, transfers, and the relief of not having to coordinate anything yourself. Compared to many liveaboards in Komodo, the Mutiara Laut sits comfortably in the slow-luxury niche – not a hardcore dive boat or party vessel, but a roaming boutique stay with a soft adventurous edge. 

If you want comfort and thoughtful service with your wilderness, it’s exceptional value.

What to know before you go

Getting there: Fly into Labuan Bajo; the boat departs from the harbour.
When to go: April to September for sunny days and calm seas; July to September for the best chance of seeing manta rays.
Pack: Reef-safe sunscreen, your swimsuit, light layers, and an underwater camera.
How long: Three nights is a good taster, but five is ideal for a full Komodo fix.

Time Out Asia's voyage on the Mutiara Laut was courtesy of the Yacht Marketing Agency. To book your trip, visit yacht-marketing-agency.com. 

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