I hiked up Yen Tu Mountain and discovered a secret wellness escape in northern Vietnam

I would never have thought cricket chirps would be therapeutic – but there I was, in a lotus-shaped pink marble tub, steeped in a Vietnamese herbal bath, being lulled into a deep calm by the natural soundtrack. It was quite the way to unwind after my earlier hike up Yen Tu Mountain.

Given that it is situated in Uong Bi city, midway between Hanoi and Halong Bay, I’m surprised that the locally revered mountain has not caught on as a popular pit stop among international visitors. A three-hour drive from the northern capital, Yen Tu features a hiking route that weaves through centuries-old red pine trees and ancient temples, a small village offering native dishes and traditional medical salves, and scenic cable car rides to the peak. And if you wish to make a wellness escape from it all, Legacy Yen Tu – MGallery sits at the base, waiting to welcome you as a modern monastic sanctuary.

Locals make a pilgrimage of the hike, journeying by foot for eight hours to the peak. The reason? After the 12th-century King Tran Nhan Ton abdicated his throne to be a monk, he retreated to Yen Tu to practice Buddhism and eventually founded the Truc Lam School of Zen there. This is why the main path is dotted with spiritual sites, such as the Hue Quang Stupa, Hoa Yen Temple, and, right at the top, the bronze-covered Dong Pagoda.

For visitors who prefer something less challenging, two cable car rides take you close to the peak. Between admiring the classic Tran Dynasty architecture of the structures and enjoying breathtaking views from the gondolas, you can expect the entire journey to take six hours in total at a leisurely pace, as you stop for delicious sips of sugarcane and to nibble on snacks from small local vendors.

Even with the rides, there's some hiking involved on the mostly paved journey. It is only after the second cable car ride that things get a little tougher, thanks to steep stone steps. But trust me when I say it's worth it. The route rewards you with blooming trees and misty bamboo groves, with a massive golden statue of the enlightened king near the top. At the summit, 1,068 metres above sea level, the view of the mountain ranges and white clouds passing through refreshes the soul. Just don't be caught without a sweater, as it can get chilly, especially during the winter months.

Uncovering local medicinal wisdom

Spirituality and scenic moments aside, the mountain has another compelling secret about its past. Legend has it that an ancient sage by the name of An Ky Sinh often foraged in the forests, discovering unique remedies to treat and heal the locals. His prowess earned him great renown and the honour of having the mountain named after him. Originally known as An Tu Son, its name eventually morphed into Yen Tu.

An Ky Sinh’s teachings live on at Yen Tu today. When visiting the local village at the mountain's base, you'll find that the star products are the packets of locally-harvested herbs and bottles of traditional ointment. I found red ginseng tea that helps strengthen the kidneys and liver, as well as medicated oils made from Yen Tu’s fresh betel leaves, known for relieving a range of ailments, from muscle pain to nausea. 

When tucking into some native dishes within the community-run attraction, I noticed the emphasis on the use of mountain vegetables in the dishes. Depending on the season, look out for fern or bamboo shoots. The local betel leaves can also be cooked as a refreshing side dish. One can also arrange for workshops, such as crafting bamboo souvenirs and tea-making, or creating dong ho prints from local woodblock stamps. Due to time constraints, I chose to enjoy a tea ceremony experience at a local teahouse.

Unravel in a designer monastic retreat 

Back to my blissful soak in the pink marble tub – if you're seeking out the full folk remedy experience as I was, arrange for some treatments at Am Tue Tinh within Legacy Yen Tu. Named after a renowned Vietnamese Buddhist monk and physician, the hotel's wellness centre adheres to his philosophies, utilising local herbs in its therapies. It is best experienced in their Thermal and Hydrotherapy experience, which features a stunning rock spring pool, a salt sauna, and a steam lodge with freshly plucked herbs. Other signatures include the herbal bath and herbal compress massage, all of which made me feel like I had hit the reset button.

Even walking about the hotel compound was an exercise in rejuvenation. Inspired by the neighbouring temple architecture, the sprawling property instils a deep sense of calm as you walk about its endless passages, winding through lush gardens and secret alcoves. And because it is designed by world-renowned designer, Bill Bensley, expect the main areas – such as the lobby and restaurants – to provide dazzling contrast with their lavish details and vibrant palette.

Legacy Yen Tu’s palatial scale is juxtaposed with handcrafted materials and ancient village construction methods. Nevertheless, these artisanal touches give the property an unexpectedly luxurious twist. 

This is best seen within the rooms, where the beige facades, made of rice husks, and brown handmade floor tiles create the effect of living in an ancient monastery. I’ll admit, one of my favourite parts of the day was simply waking up: that’s when I would pry open the timber windows and watch horses graze in the fields, while the mists rose from the trees on the mountain in the distance. It was times like these that I’m reminded of how Vietnam still hides many sanctuaries in pristine pockets, and why it’s fast-rising as a coveted spa destination. 

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