Is Sumba worth visiting? A mini-guide to Indonesia's Bali alternative

We’re less than two minutes from the airport, and a pack of goats is already blocking the road. “Sumba is very different from Bali. The only traffic we have here is animals,” jokes my driver as the herd scurries off.

Twice the size of Bali, this predominantly Catholic outpost in the Lesser Sunda Islands is a welcome alternative to its scooter-packed roads and rowdy beach clubs. Largely undeveloped, the island is a mix of cornfields, rice paddies, rolling green hills and palm trees dusted with ocean spray. Its traditional architecture, animistic culture, stellar surf and burgeoning luxury resort scene are perfect for those looking to get a bit off the grid. Here’s everything you need to know about this dreamy Eastern Indonesia island.

How to get there

OK, so you’ll need to brave Bali for a bit to get to Sumba. There are four daily one-hour flights to Tambolaka (TMC) from Bali’s Denpasar (DPS) airport with Wings Air and Nam Air. On the east side of the island is Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport (WGP), but the vast majority of travellers fly into Tambolaka for its proximity to the island’s best resorts.

Once you arrive, your resort will escort you to a private car for transportation to your resort, which is likely located one to two hours away via winding roads.

Best time to visit

Sumba is tropical year-round, but peak season on the island is from July through September, when the rain has subsided, the surf swell is high, and skies are blue. I visited in June, and while days were mostly sunny, patches of clouds and rain blew through. 

Best things to do on Sumba

1. Jump into Weekuri Lagoon

Strip down to your bathing suit and bask in the brilliant turquoise water of this ocean-fed lagoon. Located on the island’s far west coast, near Cap Karoso resort, it’s a refreshing place to cool off and watch as the island boys jump off a rickety wooden dock into the shallows.

Time Out tip: Bring some extra cash with you. Residents sell their handwoven batik textiles, jewellery, snacks and fresh coconuts here.

2. Ride a sandalwood horse

Sumba is famous for its sandalwood horses and cowboy culture. Smaller than the average horse, you’ll often see them galloping down the road or across the sandy beaches. The island’s various resorts often have their own stable of local sandalwood horses for guests to pet, ride and even swim with.

Time Out tip: Many of these horses are rescued from racing stables, so be sure to listen to the keeper’s instructions about walking behind them, staying calm and petting them.

3. Go chasing waterfalls

Rugged and wild are words often used to describe the diverse landscapes of Sumba. Hiking through its rice paddies and jungles to its various waterfalls is one of the most popular tourist activities. Combine Lapopu Waterfall and Air Terjun Matayangu in one trip and come prepared with bug spray, water, a bathing suit and comfortable hiking shoes. Just beware: hikers warn of leeches, steep climbs and treacherous roads, so it’s best to go with a local guide. Another island favourite is Wee Kacura, a tranquil cascading waterfall surrounded by blooming rice fields and an ancient tree.

Time Out tip: Ask about the rainy season and recent rain to determine the strength of the waterfall’s flow before you make the trip.

4. Visit a local village

Google Sumba and images of its unique uma, or sky-high, pitched thatched roof homes, are the first to pop up. The only Indonesian island with a majority Roman Catholic population, they also follow a traditional religion called Marapu. Based on ancestral spirits and honouring the natural world, this animistic religion sometimes includes animal sacrifice in their traditional villages, of which there are many scattered throughout the island. Ratenggaro, Wainyapu and Prai Ijing are among the most popular.

Time Out tip: Islanders still live in many of these traditional villages, so it's important to dress modestly, ask before taking photos and bring extra money for souvenirs.

5. Surf the swells

You’ll see several surfboards on the airport’s conveyor belt. Beloved for its strong Indian Ocean swell and consistent breaks, Sumba brings surfers from around the world. Home to the famous Occy’s left, unfortunately, only guests staying at Nihi Sumba are allowed to surf this hallowed wave, also known as “God's Left.”

Time Out tip: Don’t worry about bringing your own boards, resorts have them for rent, as well as lessons for all surfing levels.

Where to stay on Sumba

1. Cap Karoso

As stylish and chic as they come, this tropical modernist hideaway is the island’s latest beach retreat. Made up of 44 rooms and 20 villas on the ultra-remote western edge, each includes local stone, sandalwood horse motifs and thoughtful Sumbanese touches. Of its three restaurants, the Beach Club is the place to be with an infinity pool overlooking the cous cous sand beach, a DJ as the sun sets and a woodfired pizza oven. Don’t miss a visit to their three-hectare farm with herbs and veggies used in the food and drinks, as well as chickens, pigs and horses.

2. The Sanubari

Guests get major “Garden of Eden” vibes as they drive through the palatial grounds of this surfside resort on the southwest coast’s Dassang Beach. Split between palm trees and rice paddies, its 15 villas feel contemporary, with local timber touches, clay pot decorations, handwoven wall hangings and a light cotton duvet. Its restaurant cranks out Indonesian specialities, as well as Australian comfort foods, while guests watch the surfers ride in the distance. And in the afternoon, the resident buffalo make their way to the beach for a sunset walk on the sand.

3. Nihi Sumba

Ranked #10 on the World’s 50 Best Hotels list, it's safe to say there’s something special about Nihi Sumba. Perched above 2.5 kilometres of pristine private sand, it features 33 keys, each with a unique layout and rustic décor that mindfully honours its Sumbanese heritage. The service here is warm and thoughtful, with a laundry list of activities from swimming with their 25 sandalwood horses to a must-do Spa Safari, where a wild, secluded beach and massage beds await. Whatever you do, don’t miss filming their horses' daily run on the beach for your feed. And while it’s all-inclusive (minus alcohol), it costs a pretty penny, or several thousand, but Nihi is a once-in-a-lifetime splurge.

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