Taipei, Taiwan
Photograph: Unsplash/Fidel Fernando | Taipei, Taiwan
Photograph: Unsplash/Fidel Fernando

The ultimate guide to Taipei

Amazing food, world class coffee, and quirky neighbourhoods worth getting lost in — the Taiwanese capital has always been in plain sight

Dawson Tan
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Taipei is the kind of city that tends to convert people on the first trip and confuse them slightly on the second, when they realise the first visit barely scratched the surface. The coffee scene is world-class. The food culture runs deep enough that locals eat out for breakfast as a matter of course.. The neighbourhoods shift character block by block in a way that makes even aimless walking rewarding. Unhurried is the most relatable word when describing Taipei, which is in stark contrast by the standards of any comparable Asian capital. Go, and go before you’ve planned it to death. 

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Exploring and shopping in Taipei

Getting lost in Dadaocheng is a must. Taipei’s oldest commercial quarter runs along the Tamsui River and carries its history without making too much of a fuss — Qing-era trading houses, Japanese-period tea warehouses, and the Xia Hai City God Temple that has been organising the neighbourhood’s spiritual calendar since 1859. The neighbourhood surrounding Dihua Street has evolved well beyond its tourist-street reputation: Ri Xing Type Foundry, Taiwan’s last surviving type foundry, operates here alongside Kuo’s Astral Bookshop, a design-forward independent, and tea merchants in beautifully preserved shophouse architecture. Avoid the weekend tourist crowds and plan for weekday mornings or afternoons.

A short walk away is Chifeng Street in Zhongshan, once known as Iron Street for its automotive-parts dealers and scrap metal shops. It makes for a rewarding afternoon detour; the old buildings are still standing, but what’s inside them are now vintage clothing stores — some surprisingly good shopping at Mitty Goods — retro photography studios, and artisanal coffee shops that take their craft seriously. The retro-modern tension of this neighbourhood feels genuine.

In the hipster enclave of Songshan, but.we love butter requires effort to find but is completely worth it. The viral design-conscious butter cookie shop is hidden behind a bespoke tailor’s workshop on Fujin Street — no obvious signage and an entrance through the atelier. Once inside, each cookie is individually packaged in collaboration with emerging Taiwanese artists, which means the box is worth keeping as much as what’s in it. 

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While the night markets scene hasn’t changed dramatically in the past decade, it is still a must visit on every itinerary. The question is which one and in what spirit. Raohe Street Night Market in Songshan is more manageable than the iconic Shilin and considerably less choreographed for tourists. But for something truly local, head to Linjiang Street Night Market. Despite its smaller scale, one can find Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded dishes such as fried stinky tofu at Tien Hsiang and dessert of tangyuan on shaved ice by Yu Pin Yuan.

At the nearby Tonghua Street, Lao Li Beef Offal is a local haunt with a 30 year heritage. The stalwart serves up rustic bowls of beef broth with select cuts and a small but homely range of stir-fried dishes. Always bring cash and abandon any remaining ideas about a structured dinner. 

Eat & Drink

Start the day with an ice-drip coffee and records at Hakuho, one of Taipei’s more talked-about recent openings. Part coffee bar, part record shop, the folks here take both halves seriously: the coffee is exceptional, the vinyl collection spins warm throughout the day, and the food programme, albeit lean, holds its own. Hakuho actively encourages conversation — paper napkins double as notes should you want to get to know your neighbour. Visit late afternoon and you might stay for a round of cocktails, the Irish coffee in particular, when evening arrives and the mood shifts. For those flying solo or in need of quiet, Noon Coffee does slower brews, relaxed pacing, and monastic minimalism.

Fugu Gastrobar is where the locals go, which is enough endorsement. The modern izakaya’s Japanese-Taiwanese-inspired small plates and large-format sharing dishes work equally well for dinner dates and big groups. The chilled marinated sweetfish with ume arrives packed with roe; the Nagoya-style grilled chicken wings are the kind of dish you’ll reconstruct badly in your own kitchen afterwards. For groups, consider the donabe, where seasonal ingredients such as firefly squid and Wagyu beef are packed generously into the clay pot. To nourish, ask the team about the rotating double-boiled soups.

Alternatively, Futura is the gastropub version of the same instinct — cosy, well-edited, with a cocktail programme above its weight class courtesy of its affiliation with The Public House. The cold zucchini noodles, lifted with sourdough sauce and sundried tomatoes, and the grilled beef tongue with Taiwanese sweet chilli and creamy mash are the picks. Into martinis? Try the instagram-worthy martini flight featuring classics and flavoured riffs.

Suki Salon is a worthy mention too, the Japanese cocktail bar from the renowned Mixology Salon group has recently added a food menu curated by renowned chef André Chiang. Chiang’s cooking usually lives behind fine-dining price points; here, springy noodles in an aromatic chilli and vinegar blend, and exquisite handmade dumplings arrive alongside seriously made tea-based cocktails in a relaxing Japanese bonsai garden setting.

Stay

Capella Taipei opened April 2025 in Songshan — not in Xinyi, where everyone expected — which tells you something about how it thinks. The hotel is calm and warm-timbered, designed by André Fu Studio to feel more like a private, modern mansion. Rooms are properly soundproofed, which matters more than it sounds after a full day in this city. The AI room system handles everything you’d otherwise be calling the front desk for, and the turndown gifts — botanical bath bombs one evening, apothecary-packaged herbal foot bath kits the next — are the kind of detail you’ll remember weeks after you get home. The Glasshouse bar complex is worth an evening in itself: four distinct drinking concepts under one roof, including a tailoring-themed speakeasy within Tilt that operates by invitation — ask about it at the bar.

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