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I visited the world’s most beautiful country – and it’s right on Australia’s doorstep

Here’s everything that completely blew me away on my first trip to Auckland

Melissa Woodley
Written by
Melissa Woodley
Travel & News Editor, Time Out Australia
Ocean surrounded by grassy mountains
Photograph: Melissa Woodley for Time Out | Ōmanawanui Track, North Auckland
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It baffles me that I’ve spent 25 years living in Australia without ever crossing the ditch. New Zealand has always been on my bucket list, yet somehow I always set my sights further afield to random places like Dublin, Osaka and Guatemala. But this year, I finally made my Middle Earth debut – and golly gosh, I only wish I’d done it sooner.

Last year, New Zealand was voted the most beautiful country on Earth, and after visiting, I can completely understand why. Spanning 103,500 square miles, this island nation feels like a postcard brought to life, packed with a jaw-dropping diversity of landscapes and experiences. The North Island dazzles with multicoloured geothermal wonderlands, towering volcanic cones, sparkling harbours and striking black-sand beaches. Meanwhile, the South Island impresses with dramatic fjords, snow-capped mountains, gobsmacking glaciers and pristine lakes that double as a cold plunge. 

New Zealand itself is made up of around 600 stunning islands and 70 cities – and while I wish I could’ve explored them all, it made sense to start with the country’s biggest hub, Auckland. It’s also the closest main city to reach from Australia, with flights from Sydney, Brisbane or Melbourne taking roughly three hours – quicker than a trip from the East Coast to Perth

Aerial photo of Auckland city
Photograph: Supplied | Tātaki Auckland Unlimited

Living in Sydney, I’m used to having one of the world’s most spectacular harbours on my doorstep, but the beauty of Auckland’s Waitematā Harbour took me by surprise. From my 11th-floor hotel window, I gazed out across the city skyline to the sparkling waters where yachts lazily drifted towards distant volcanic islands. It honestly felt like I was staring straight at a Tourism New Zealand billboard.

The first activity on my itinerary was an exhilarating e-bike ride from the waterfront to the top of Maungawhau/Mount Eden. I’ll admit, I had no idea where I was headed – I left the navigating to my wonderful tour guide, Eddie from Power to the Pedal – but maybe the element of surprise is what made the experience even more spectacular. Standing 143 metres tall, Maungawhau is Auckland’s tallest volcanic peak, with a dramatic 50-metre-deep crater. We timed our ride perfectly with sunset, and from the summit, we were treated to breathtaking 360-degree vistas of the city, harbour, coastline and beyond.

Volcanic crater with grass
Photograph: Melissa Woodley for Time Out

Many people asked me if I visited Waiheke, Auckland’s most popular day trip – which, judging by the photos, is an absolute island paradise – but I opted for one of its more underrated volcanic islands instead. While Rangitoto is only a 25-minute ferry from downtown Auckland, it felt like I’d washed up on an island in the middle of nowhere. I followed the seven-kilometre trail to the summit, winding through ancient lava fields and lush pōhutukawa forest before reaching the top, where I soaked in panoramic views of Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf.

New Zealand is undoubtedly home to many of the world’s most breathtaking walks, and the Ōmanawanui Track in West Auckland’s Waitakere Ranges proved exactly why. Just an hour’s drive from the CBD, this epic 3.7-kilometre track easily ranks among my top five hikes of all time, boasting 360-degree vistas of the wild Waitakere Ranges National Park, black-sand Whatipū Beach and the Manukau Harbour. I probably muttered “wow” to myself at least 50 times – maybe more if I hadn’t been so out of breath from the 2,420 steps.

Hike through grassy mountains
Photograph: Melissa Woodley for Time Out

New Zealand’s natural wonders make it prime for road tripping, but you don’t have to leave the city to experience its beauty. Along the waterfront, I discovered some of Auckland’s hippest hangouts, from Britomart and Wynyard Quarter to Viaduct Harbour and North Wharf. The city’s true charm also lies in its people. On a Big Foody Tour with Auckland’s most knowledgeable foodie, Elle Armon-Jones, I was introduced to some of the country’s top chefs and producers – and hearing their stories was as delightful as tasting their creations. Speaking of which, the food scene here is incredible – I loved San Ray on Ponsonby Road, where the calming café interior is as stunning as its Mexican-inspired brunch fare (the cornbread is a real winner); Giapo serves gelato that’s practically edible art (go for the world-famous hokey pokey); and every dish at Metita is a masterpiece of Pacific flavours.

To cap off my Auckland adventure, I ascended to level 53 of the Sky Tower – New Zealand’s tallest building at 328 metres, offering views of the city and coastline in every direction. But instead of just going to the observation deck, I decided to fling myself off it. Yep, it was seriously scary, but flying like Superman at speeds of up to 85 kilometres per hour while taking in the island nation’s stunning scenery made for the perfect finale.

So, yes, I can now confirm that Australia has the most ridiculously good-looking neighbour in the world. I can’t wait to come back and uncover more of this gorgeous island’s incredible beauty soon. Who's coming?

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