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Turns out Adelaide after dark is where it’s at

I have a running joke with my friends that I’m South Australia's unofficial tourism ambassador. Being born and raised in Sydney to Adelaidean parents, I'm convinced my genetic makeup is at least 50 per cent SA shiraz. So, with that obvious bias in mind, I'm here to tell you that Adelaide – Australia's Festival State – really does have it all.
When the chance came to swap Sydney's winter blues for Illuminate Adelaide – the citywide light festival celebrating art, technology, culture and science – I dove in, beanie first. And after finally experiencing it for myself, I can confidently say it deserves a top spot on your winter travel list too. Here's why:
As soon as the sun sets, Adelaide comes out of hibernation. With bars and restaurants heaving, free public art around almost every corner and a genuine sense of excitement in the air, you don’t even need to try to find the good bits – it’s all there to stumble upon. Book a ticket to Night Visions in the Botanic Garden, where projections transform the trees into faces that genuinely feel alive. Other recommendations include Miguel Chevalier’s Digital Abyss at ILA and the moving Rarrirarri installation at the Art Gallery of South Australia. If you're travelling with a competitive bunch, don't miss Augmented Games at the Adelaide Showground, where you'll go head to head on interactive 'courts' in a series of adrenaline-inducing challenges, officiated by a Courtmaster so there are no arguments on the way home.
One of the best things about the festival is that you don’t have to spend a fortune to experience it. The free City Lights trail winds through North Terrace to Rymill Park, with projections and light installations around almost every corner. My hot tip? Follow the interactive festival map on your phone – it turns the evening into a real ‘choose your own adventure’ through the city.
After setting off from Lumen Bar (Adelaide Uni’s purpose-built bar for Illuminate, with great SA wines and free DJ sets to boot), I saw all ages interacting with the art. I spotted little kids holding hands with their grandparents playing on Amigo & Amigo’s Piano Walk, like a scene straight out of Big (unfortunately minus Tom Hanks). Along the trail, I visited Bonython Hall at the University of Adelaide. Seeing Miguel Chevalier's Pixel Waves transform the space with a constantly morphing floor felt like walking inside a living artwork. It’s one of those experiences where photos don’t do it justice.
An underrated joy of Illuminate is just how easy it is to navigate. Unlike other major city-wide festivals, I spent little time in Ubers thanks to Adelaide's compact CBD. I could walk from my hotel, the Sofitel Adelaide, to almost every major experience, which made the whole trip feel super relaxed rather than rushed. After long nights on my feet, returning to the heated indoor pool felt like the ultimate reward for braving the winter chill. It’s also just a stone’s throw from some of Adelaide’s best bars and restaurants. I’m still dreaming about being taken to Greece via the taramasalata at Omada Bar and Grill, and late-night drinks and nibbles at 2KW, where you can grab a spot on the rooftop and watch the Illuminate action unfold from a bird’s-eye view.
The beauty of Illuminate is that most of the action happens when the sun goes down. This leaves your days wide open to explore the city and beyond. They don't call it the ‘20-minute city’ for nothing. My recco? A day trip to McLaren Vale and the wider Fleurieu Peninsula is hard to beat. I spent a late morning (yes, a morning…) tasting incredible wines at S.C. Pannell before finishing with lunch at Star of Greece overlooking the ocean at Port Willunga – both of which are under an hour from the CBD. On the final day of my trip, sitting at Star of Greece with ocean views, exceptional local produce, sharing a bottle of SA’s finest with my favourite people, I had one of those moments where I thought, it just can’t get better than this.
Illuminate Adelaide runs until July 19, with more than 100 experiences taking over the city. If you're looking for an excuse to embrace winter instead of escaping it, this is a pretty convincing one. You can check out the full program here.
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