Run by the Miralles family, Senyor Vermut is a neighbourhood place in the Eixample Esquerre that practises the noble art of the aperitif. On the afternoon I went along, the tipple of the day was Negroni, and I set things rolling with this classic cocktail, one part gin, one part red vermouth, and one Campari. They say a Negroni awakens the appetite, and so it did. The Senyor Vermut menu of tapas and small plates isn’t all that different from what you’d find at many a more magnificent establishment, but at the Miralles family bar everything has the Miralles touch. There was a peach gazpacho, all kinds of croquettes – the wild mushroom ones are fantastic – a traditional 'capipota' (calf’s head and foot stew) with the same rich flavours as the ones my grandma used to make, interesting if not superlative 'patatas bravas', and a 'broqueta moruno' – skewered pork kebab – marinated in oil and spices. I’m already compiling a wish list for the next visit, when I’ll come by bike to burn off the calories.