Zenkichi

Wander into a labyrinthine dark, stuffy subterranean setting beneath the rather dull stretch of land next to Friedrichstrasse, squeeze into a bamboo-curtained booth and prepare to enjoy a Japanese meal you won't forget in a while. Zenkichi claims to be in the tradition of a Tokyo brasserie – and if this is what a Tokyo brasserie does, then we are all for them. There's an a la carte option but stick to the basic or 'luxe' tasting menus for a whirl through some of the most flavoursome Japanese comestibles to be found in the city. Intriguing combination platters blend textures and flavours carefully, meat and produce quality is exceptional and the sensitive preparation allows ingredients to sing. The moreish sake flights are guaranteed to leave you in a state of slightly dazed, satiated stupefaction. If only they could install some air conditioning (we did visit at the height of summer and then again in the depths of winter and both times had to virtually disrobe) Zenkichi would be damn near perfect.