We aren’t fond of the label ‘gastropub’, but the food at this newly tarted-up Valley stalwart definitely rates a mention. Don’t be put off by the gimmicky-sounding menu, which includes Kylie Minogue is the Queen of Popcorn Chicken, Chickening-out cheeseburger, Hickory Dickory Cock burger and a Sheffield Shield schnitzel. The fried pickles are about as good as a bar snack can be – Picklehead’s finest New York-style, deep fried in a thick, crunchy batter with spicy aioli ($9). Prepare for things to get messy with the Captain Chook’s Slopped-up Abroad – a juicy, delicious drip-down-your-arm chicken burger with blue cheese sauce and shoestring fries ($13.50). There’s hot wings served wet or crunchy ($13), and cheddar-grilled corn on the cob ($5).
If you’re getting the idea that it’s all about beer-swilling and dude food (to coin another irksome phrase) think again. There’s a giant bowl of fruit taking pride of place behind the bar, and changing daily cocktail specials such as Gin like Flynn (Beefeater with fresh apple juice and cucumber); the Mandarin from Snowy River (Absolut Vodka, fresh mandarin and strawberry juice); or HMAS Sugar Caned, with spiced rum, fresh pear juice and cinnamon (all $10). Of course there’s also plenty of beer to swill, including a decent range of imported brews and the usual local suspects on tap – Little Creatures, Burleigh Brewing, James Squire. They’re not trying to win any fancy-pants competitions here with the drinks list or menu, and that’s as it should be for a gastropub that also calls itself a dive bar.
Granted, some of the grittiness remains from the Tempo or Dooley’s days, in the form of graffitied concrete feature walls in the dining room inside, and unadorned footpath benches and tables outside. Overall the refurbishment strikes a pleasing balance between industrial-chic and dive bar. It’s a welcome addition to a neighbourhood that has plenty of cocktail bars open to the wee hours, sticky-carpet places in which to get messy at midday, but a distinct lack of choice when it comes to decently priced all-day food in comfortable, relaxed surrounds. We may not be fans of the gastropub label, but we’re very fond of this new bird on the block.
