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[title]If wine was the first medicine, Laura Catena was destined to unite those worlds. Graduated in Biology from Harvard University and Medicine from Stanford, she practiced emergency medicine for nearly 30 years in San Francisco, USA. At the same time, she founded the Catena Institute of Wine and currently leads the iconic family winery Catena Zapata, recently named Best Vineyard in the World and Most Admired Wine Brand.
Science, tradition, and wine coexist in her daily life. Laura is undoubtedly one of the main reasons behind the global positioning of Argentine wine, without neglecting her more human side: the after-meal conversation with a glass in hand, the enjoyment of a shared barbecue, and the defense of moderate wine drinking as part of culture. In this conversation, she shares her vision of a world where terroir, research, and well-channeled passions are the true legacy.
You managed to unite science, medicine, and wine…
It was all predetermined, wasn’t it? Wine was the first medicine in the world. For six thousand years it has been used to cure all ailments. And today, scientific study is a fundamental part of any decision. I studied medicine because I wanted to help people and I love being a doctor—I will never stop being one. In any job, you can exercise the muscle of empathy.
"Wine was the first medicine in the world"
Her scientific way of thinking is reflected in every corner of the winery. When she joined the team in 1995, she created the Catena Institute of Wine, a research center aiming to produce wines capable of competing with the best in the world, making decisions based on data and analysis for the study and preservation of wine.
“The scientific aspect is very important in how we preserve Argentine vineyards when there is less water, fewer people willing to work in agriculture… Hopefully, we won’t stop working with the land, and vineyard work won’t become fully robotic, but technologies should be added so humans don’t have to do exhausting work under unpleasant physical conditions.”
"Hopefully, we won’t stop working with the land, and vineyard work won’t become fully robotic"
“For me, wine is joy, it is pleasure. Nowadays, there is much talk that alcohol is bad, but there are scientific foundations indicating that wine in moderation has benefits such as possible reductions in the risk of heart disease, dementia, and cancer. We must defend the tradition of sharing it at the table and afterward, something that barely exists in other parts of the world,” she states, and indeed, her defense of drinking wine as part of a healthy lifestyle is featured on her portal In Defense Of Wine. “My perspective on wine and health has evolved along with scientific research,” she adds.
The legacy of Malbec and the pride of terroir
The story of Catena Zapata is also the story of Malbec in Argentina. Nicola Catena, Laura’s great-grandfather, planted the first vines in 1902. His son Domingo believed in the potential of the grape variety, and Nicolás continued the legacy shared with his daughter Laura. He was a pioneer in exporting fine wines and planting in high-altitude zones.
“My father planted vines over 1,500 meters high, in the Uco Valley. The poor soil, the cold climate with plenty of sun, and just enough water make that area a paradise for Malbec. It has good acidity, soft tannins, and elegance. It’s a perfect wine, both young and aged. In my opinion, in Mendoza we make the perfect wine.”
Also of interest: 10 Restaurants in Uco Valley Worth Discovering
Founded in 1902, Bodega Catena Zapata is recognized for its pioneering role in reviving the Malbec variety. The family has dedicated their lives, passion, and spirit to transforming a high-altitude desert oasis into one of the most beautiful and unique wine regions in the world.
Dr. Catena’s obsession is to learn more and more about high-altitude viticulture, soil microbiome, and the aging potential of wines. She brought her scientific vision and passion for rescuing old vineyards to the winery, the same passion that led her to found Luca Wines in 1999, her own winery, with the goal of saving old vines that were about to be uprooted to make way for new plantations and to exploit the potential of small, old family vineyards in the Uco Valley.
“For me, uprooting a vineyard is sacrilege—it has heart and history. Old vines produce less, yes, but they have subtlety, elegance… The flavor is richer. I created Luca to stop that massive uprooting,” shares the doctor who was named Hero of Old Vines in 2023 for her work preserving Argentina’s old vines, un-grafted, mass-cultivated, and genetically diverse. “It was a great honor,” she acknowledges.
“Today we produce everything organically. I believe the future of wine is consuming less but better quality. Sustainability means leaving the world the same or better than we received it, and that requires investment, study, science.”
"The future of wine is consuming less but better quality"
Laura speaks of a future where wine is produced not only with respect for the land but also as a way to preserve local culture against global homogenization. “Each wine region has a strong culture. We must celebrate and communicate it. If we manage to make someone in Japan experience an Argentine moment with a glass of Malbec, that is an achievement for humanity. Wine allows us to be creative, that’s why I love it.”
Listening to Laura Catena speak makes it clear that wine is an absolute protagonist in her life and that she lives by the Wine First concept—the same concept upon which the winery restaurant Angélica Cocina Maestra is based, which just received its first red Michelin star and a green star for sustainable practices.
Also of interest: Where Mendoza’s Michelin-Starred Chefs Eat
“The condition for opening the restaurant at Catena Zapata was clear: wine had to be the main dish. We choose the wines on the menu, and the chefs pair the dishes with them. Wine first, always; it’s beautiful to see how the concept is accepted and what it generates in diners,” comments Laura.
In addition to being a winemaker and doctor, Laura is the author of three books: Argentine Wine, which takes readers through the history of the beverage produced in our country; Gold in the Vineyards, which captures and illustrates the magic of the world’s most famous wineries (in fact, it is on display during the winery’s guided tour); and her latest, Malbec mon amour, created with Alejandro Vigil and, in her own words, “sharing that process was very fun.”
“I wanted someone to write down my ideas but ended up doing it myself because I’m passionate about ideas and no one could put them on paper exactly as I thought and felt. Passion drives me, and humans live for their passions.”
Laura Catena inherited not only a passion for wine but a mission: to take Argentine wine to the world, defend tradition, protect old vines, and apply science at every step of the process. She did it with humility, work, and conviction.
“I worked hard to be where I am today, and it was a constant challenge to prove I was not there just because of my last name. I love wine; it seems like the most beautiful profession to me. It’s a luxury to produce something that connects with the land, history, and people.”