café-babalú
Café Babalú
Café Babalú

10 gastro projects revitalizing downtown Buenos Aires

Bars, restaurants, and cafés speaking to a young audience that didn’t have the area on their radar.

Cecilia Boullosa
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The Microcentro of Buenos Aires went through very tough years. Overnight, the millions of people who gave it life and a vibrancy that lasted almost 24 hours a day disappeared. The pandemic and remote work, along with the emergence of other gastronomic hubs, hit the area hard and forced it to reinvent itself. It’s true that there is still much room to grow in this new phase — many storefronts remain vacant, especially along streets like Reconquista or San Martín, for example — but little by little a small light at the end of the tunnel is beginning to appear.

A new generation of gastronomic entrepreneurs has started to take over the area to open projects aimed at a young crowd while also rescuing classic Buenos Aires cuisine and cocktails. From the new porteño café inaugurated in the Kavanagh building to an all-day restaurant created by a music producer, or the trendy bar on the ground floor of the Atelier Bonet. A tour through the renewed gastronomic landscape of downtown Buenos Aires.

1. Cora

It just opened its doors in the most beautiful building in Buenos Aires, which was also the first skyscraper in Latin America. Yes, we’re talking about the Kavanagh. From its name, Cora pays homage to the peculiar millionaire who had a modernist vision in the 1930s, commissioning the construction of the 31-floor rationalist Art Deco tower.

The project is led by an architect father — naturally — who designed several iconic restaurants in the early 2000s (like Central) and his son, chef Facundo Olabarrieta. It’s worth noting this is the first time the strict Kavanagh consortium has given the green light to a gastronomic business.

The venue is small and very elegant, with jazz vinyl always playing and suited men sipping espresso at the travertine bar with green velvet stools. No flat whites or lattes here; the coffee nomenclature is traditional porteño style, accompanied by medialunas (croissants), impeccable lemon pound cake, and at noon some sandwiches and salads. The coffee we didn’t know we needed. “I love this area and I see an interesting resurgence thanks to new projects. There’s a lot of art and design movement,” says Facundo.

Insider tip: For aperitif hour, they serve wine and porteño cocktails like the Clarito.

Where: Florida 1045.

2. Acuario Bar

Another opening that brought new life to the Microcentro in recent months. Acuario Bar is the project of a group of friends, notable for its location. A beautiful corner at Suipacha and Paraguay, where the iconic Bonet building stands, built in the 1930s by Catalan architect Antonio Bonet Castellana following Le Corbusier’s principles, intended as an artists’ atelier.

Painted blue, its unique design is impossible to miss (and demands a photo). There are some tables on the sidewalk and a small room with a mirrored bar where blue remains the protagonist. They define themselves as “a modern classic,” and among their clientele of artists, actors, and musicians, those under 40 dominate. The menu features wines from small producers from Mendoza, Jujuy, San Juan, and Salta, classic aperitifs, and highballs. Snacks include marinated olives, anchovies from Hernán Viva with butter, cheese boards, and vitel toné.

Insider tip: Mocktail options are available for those who don’t drink alcohol.

Where: Paraguay 900.

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3. Ada Buenos Aires

One of the major bets in the Microcentro area. Just one block from Avenida 9 de Julio, at Libertad and Arenales, Ada Buenos Aires opened — an all-day restaurant located in a spacious and bright corner next to a new hotel. It is a peculiar partnership between music and gastronomic producer José Ezequiel Álvarez, known as Pochography (creator of Once’s first specialty coffee shop, Ada), and the owners of the Fabric empire, the Dayan brothers, with over eighty venues in Buenos Aires. The young and talented Cons Cerezo penned the launch menu, which includes hits like a truly “nasty” burger, Caesar salad with beef, and a loin milanesa with spaghetti in basil cream. Plus pastries and delicious desserts like flan with port caramel and orange. Ada Buenos Aires has everything it takes to be a success in an area missing a concept like this.

Insider tip: It also operates as a bar, open until 1 a.m.

Where: Libertad 1198.

4. Café Babalú

Opened just two months ago, Café Babalú is another example of restaurants or cafés opening in heritage buildings. This time in the beautiful Kairuz building, located at the corner of Reconquista and Paraguay, built in 1913 and one of the most representative examples of Art Nouveau in Buenos Aires, with circular balconies reminiscent of theater boxes and its unusual metal dome.

Also of interest: La Isla, a top sector in the Recoleta neighborhood

On the ground floor today operates the café and restaurant, offering a concept in tune with the owner’s origins, a Russian immigrant. Specialties include draniki — similar to potato rösti — with poached egg, salmon, and hollandaise sauce, syrnikis (Russian pancakes) with condensed milk, and grenki, sourdough bread fried with garlic. Desserts include honey cake with cream (medovik) and Napoleon with custard.

Insider tip: Just around the corner on Reconquista is BlinBlin, run by Russian owners and chefs, specializing in pancakes and crepes. Opened a little over a year ago.

Where: Paraguay 412.

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5. Comité 357

The beautiful iron-facade premises of the Hermanos Lumi crystal factory, third generation glassmakers, was rented out for five years until the right person came along to breathe new life into it. Mayda fell in love with the space and opened Comité 357 in this charming spot full of magic and the atmosphere of the Bajo neighborhood, on a cobblestone passage with street lamps — very early 20th century vibe. A mix of design space, art, and wines, Comité often hosts poetry reading cycles, symposiums, and other events. During the day they serve French press coffee and some pastries, but the highlight is Wednesday nights when the wine club opens and cheese and charcuterie boards start circulating.

Insider tip: Hours vary; it’s best to check Instagram or Google before visiting.

Where: Tres Sargentos 357.

6. El Legado

When the lights in Microcentro offices go out, this peculiar piano bar’s lights come on — a fresh and different concept that captivated a young crowd gathering in groups to sing or off-key rock national songs from the ‘80s.

Besides group catharsis, at El Legado you can eat and drink abundantly. Options include tortilla with sun-dried tomato pesto, garlic shrimp, katsu sando, and pan tumaca with cured ham. Known musicians like Joaquín Levinton sometimes drop in unannounced.

Insider tip: It was one of our picks in the Time Out Buenos Aires - Mendoza Guide among the 500 best restaurants and bars.

Where: Paraguay 374.

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7. Filo

Filo was an iconic restaurant in the ‘90s, known for its unique style and bohemian clientele. Colors, paintings, art, Veneto cuisine, and the very personal style of its former Italian owner, Deni De Biaggi, who was even visited by Madonna.

It closed in 2021 and reopened last July with new owners, much to the joy of those who love the vibe of the Bajo neighborhood. It’s next to Dadá bar, so you can visit both together. They serve Neapolitan-style pizzas from an oven tiled with Venetian mosaics, pastas, and a daily changing executive menu.

Insider tip: The lasagna Bolognese is one of Filo’s new hits.

Where: San Martín 975.

8. Dodo Café

Opened less than a year ago on San Martín street, Dodo Café offers specialty Colombian coffee and has gradually earned a loyal local following among workers and residents.

Also of interest: The best specialty coffee shops for takeaway

The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, with colorful murals on the walls and wooden benches with small attached tables for enjoying an Americano or house latte. There’s also a communal table. Their specialty is Colombian almojábana — fried cornmeal and cheese buns. For lunch, sandwiches like eggplant. They are open Monday to Friday only.

Insider tip: They use Fuego coffee and employ various brewing methods. Service is a standout.

Where: San Martín 487.

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9. Dadá

Dadá can’t be left off any list about the Microcentro scene. Despite being a quarter of a century old, it remains relevant, surviving trends, crises, and changing times. It has an almost timeless aura with a clientele always including artists, musicians, filmmakers, writers, and other historical and new local bohemians.

Paulo Orcorchuk is always at the helm of Dadá, which also boasts one of the city’s most nocturnal kitchens, open until 2 a.m. The menu never changes. For drinks: a perfect Negroni or an Old Fashioned to savor slowly at a window table.

Insider tip: You must try at least once their iconic Lomo Dadá — sirloin with Dijon mustard over a potato gratin.

Where: San Martín 941.

10. Fa Song Song

In the Microcentro area there’s a Korean cuisine hub attracting a young crowd of K-Pop and Asian culture fans. One of our favorites is Fa Song Song, always busy and lively. Quick, well-made food suitable for lunch or early dinner.

A rolling shutter reveals a modern, bright room with an open kitchen emitting a spectacular aroma. Tteokbokki is one of their most famous dishes — Korean “gnocchi” shaped as cylinders made with rice flour and cooked in a very spicy sauce, a popular street food in Seoul.

Insider tip: Another dish you must try is jejuk deobap — pork shoulder sautéed with gochujang sauce.

Where: Esmeralda 993.

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