If anyone ever complains about Canberra’s nightlife, just nod quietly and then laugh all the way up the stairs to Bar Rochford, where you will be enjoying a glass of the grippy, slightly volcanic Rami wine from COS in Sicily. This is undoubtedly the best little wine bar in the ACT, and once you’re here, you’ll never ever want to leave. You know how they talk about some venues being timeless? Well, this place is locationless. Once you’re up in the cosy confines of this first-floor bar, you could be in Melbourne, Berlin or deepest Darlinghurst. There’s a stack of records on the wall, a roll-down specials list on brown paper, early hip hop on the stereo and super lovely staff wearing vintage shirts. Big arched windows at one end let in light and brighten the space, but a real log fire keeps things toasty on a bracingly cold Canberra evening, and they have enlisted a team of excited young guns to run the joint.
Let them guide you on a vinous adventure that traipses the world, but if you don’t order food too, it’s a lost opportunity. The $90 set menu isn’t a cop-out; it’s more like a tour of their latest and greatest seasonal hits. Think smoked beef tongue with anchovy mayo; lamb ribs (or cauliflower for vegos) with black bean and honey; and crème brûlée tart, if you’re shooting for the stars.