Welcome to Mother Sippy, where we shine a light on the talented winemakers, brewers, distillers and mixologists that make sure the Mother City never goes thirsty! From new wine releases to taprooms pouring perfect pints, Mother Sippy is your guide to all that’s good and great in Cape Town’s world of drinks.
South Africa may officially fall – along with the USA, Australia and Argentina – into the ‘New World’ of winemaking, but there is certainly nothing new about the origins of the Cape vineyards.
South Africa’s winemaking heritage dates back more than three centuries (1659 to be precise), and Cape Town is home to the oldest fruit-bearing vine in the southern hemisphere: a resilient Crouchen blanc planted in 1772, which can still be seen today in Heritage Square on Bree Street.
And while the winelands are brimming with youthful energy, with cellars opening and vineyards being planted, there is also a deep respect for heritage vineyards.
Across the Western Cape, thousands of hectares of old vines – those over 35 years of age –still quietly produce some of the country’s most exceptional wines. And on 1 August each year, Old Vine Day puts them firmly in the spotlight.
The Old Vine Project (OVP) is the driving force behind this celebration of heritage vineyards. Launched in 2003 by viticulturist Rosa Kruger and given a major boost in 2016 with backing from businessman Johann Rupert, the initiative aims to find, record, protect and promote South Africa’s old vines. Today, more than 2600 hectares have been identified and nurtured, many with stories as rich and complex as the wines they produce.
Consider the legendary Semillon vineyard ‘La Colline’ near Franschhoek, established in 1936, or the rugged Chenin Blanc vines rooted in the sandy soils between Lambert’s Bay and Clanwilliam since 1964. In the Bottelary Hills, a one-hectare block of Chenin at Kaapzicht has been harvested every year since 1947.
So why does age matter in a vineyard? Older vines tend to produce fewer grapes, but what they lack in quantity they compensate for with concentration and complexity, nuance and texture. As winemakers increasingly recognise this potential, there is a strong effort to preserve these venerable plants in the ground rather than replacing them with younger and more productive vines. Winemakers such as Eben Sadie, Chris and Andrea Mullineux, Adi Badenhorst, and Sebastian Beaumont have played key roles in highlighting the value of South Africa’s ancient vines.
They are some of the most well-known ‘old vine’ winemakers, but today you’ll find dozens of winemakers and cellars producing boutique volumes (which can, admittedly, be a catchphrase for expensive) of remarkable ‘old vine’ wines. So, where to begin?
Look for the ‘Certified Heritage Vineyards’ seal, which verifies that you’re drinking wine produced from South Africa’s mature vines. It’s a mark of pride for both the viticulturists and winemakers who preserve these historic plots, and for wine enthusiasts who choose to support them.
August 1 is Old Vine Day, and the perfect opportunity to hunt down a bottle of liquid history. From a complex Cabernet Sauvignon with decades of stories to tell, to Chenin Blancs that have weathered half a century of Cape wind and sun, here are a few Old Vine favourites worth seeking out.
