For a city that's never short on good food, the menu of meaty options in central Cape Town has a new entry that's well worth a visit.
In the space once home to the much-loved Savoy Cabbage, Bo-Vine in the City is the urban twin to the ever-popular Bo-Vine steakhouse in Camps Bay, a popular fixture on the seaside strip.
At Heritage Square Bo-Vine brings a big-city contemporary elegance that's evident from the moment you're greeted at the door by the maître d'. Exposed brick walls hint at the centuries of history, while steel staircases and Bo-Vine's signature graffiti style of decor deliver a hit of contemporary cool.
While it's a large restaurant, the tables are spread across the ground floor, a side room, and a mezzanine, so it never feels too busy. There's a choice of seating options on offer, but I've never met a banquette I didn't like. Happily, at Bo-Vine, there's plenty of choice, from cosy nooks to long rows of tables ideal for people-watching. And judging by the clientele in the week leading up to the Jazz Festival, this is a place to see and be seen as much as it is to dine.
Bo-Vine takes their meat seriously, and while we ease into the evening over cocktails – Old Fashioned, perhaps a touch sweet; and an excellent Negroni – our waiter comes by to showcase what's on offer. Vegetarians, look away now, as you'll be presented with a wooden board of the day's cuts: hefty tomahawk, marbled wagyu, and sizeable T-bones, among others. And the waiters here are on point when it comes to the menu, so expect a mini-masterclass in all things steak, whether it's grain-fed versus grass, or wet aging versus dry.
It's an extensive menu, with starters that include steakhouse classics – steak tartare, garlic mussels, and an excellent carpaccio – alongside a wide range of mostly meaty main courses. The peri-peri chicken, pressed lamb belly, and pork ribs all tempted. But, when in Rome, right? This is a steakhouse, so a steak it had to be. Rib-eye is my cut of choice, and here it was grilled – medium-rare – perfectly. Chips on the side, onion rings too because, well, why not, and a marrow bone for good measure. Cholesterol tests be damned.
While beef is the headline act, Bo-Vine in the City also caters to pescatarians and plant-based diners with a handful of options that don't feel like afterthoughts. But, it's clearly not the real reason to come here. Desserts play to the classics, and while the chocolate fondant was exceptional, the Crème Brûlée missed the mark, with an overly set custard, piping hot bowl, and sugar not quite caramelised.
As you might have guessed from the play on words in the name, Bo-Vine is as much about the beef as it is about wine. So alongside the compact collection of cocktails, you'll find a well-chosen wine list that doesn't rely on big-name brands for interest. Instead, you might be tempted by a Swartland Grenache or a cool-climate Syrah. Not sure where to start? The menu helpfully lists suggested wine pairings for each course.
Set to become a Bree Street staple, Bo-Vine is open daily for lunch and dinner, making it the perfect destination for everything from a corporate lunch to date night.
Bo-Vine City is at 101 Hout Street, on the side of Heritage Square. Walk-ins welcome, but reservations recommended.
Can't you get a table? Here's our pick of the best steak in Cape Town.