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Ahh, Stellenbosch, the home of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc. The region’s impressive award-winning wines read like a Platter guide.
But if you’re a non-drinker like me, all those accolades mean nothing. And that’s why most teetotalers don’t consider Stellies when traipsing around the countryside during weekend jaunts.
Pity, because Stellenbosch is more than wine country. It’s a dorpie cloaked under morning mist and soft afternoon sunshine. Where the locals smile and greet you. Without sounding like the Cheers intro, Stellies is a place that embraces you like a long-lost friend.
And the food, oh the food. In the famous words of the late Anthony Bourdain, “Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.” Of course I took those words literally while spending 48 hours in Stellenbosch.
First stop: Lunch
Cavalli Wine Estate gives main character energy the second you drive along the gravelled road, past the horse stables, and approach a massive concrete monstrosity. Very utilitarian. Very modular. I believe it’s called brutalist modern architecture.
Among the vineyards and the greenest landscape is a building that juxtaposes its environment, and somehow it works; like yin and yang. This is where you’ll find Cavalli Restaurant and the art gallery.
Double-glazed glass doors open onto the restaurant. I’m instantly blown away by the sheer size. The restaurant utilised its architecture to maximise natural sunlight. Every window and door looks out onto the lush valley below and the Helderberg mountains above. If they were giving out awards for restaurants with a view, Cavalli would make the top 10.
Cavalli Restaurant won its first Eat Out star in November 2023. Under the helm of Chef Lucas Carstens, it’s maintained that streak of consecutive awards.
Chef Lucas uses only local ingredients, and the menu changes weekly. The 6-course Chef’s Set Menu is priced at R955 per person; the Vegetarian Chef’s Set Menu is R845 per person. Cavalli is also currently running a special: two courses for R590, three courses for R795.
I chose the two-course menu (mains and dessert). Cavalli takes fine dining to new heights. A simple lunch can turn into a late afternoon of sublime winter sunsets. And, of course, the accompanying sourdough and butter are mourishly delish. I had to stop myself after the second slice.
My main was sustainable fish, Cape salmon. Served in a buttery broth and furikake, a dry Japanese condiment sprinkled on rice, the salmon was moist and silky. A definite melt-in-your-mouth moment.
Dessert was a heavenly white chocolate mousse. Not too sweet and not too rich. Fluffy and light, I could have eaten two more, given the chance.
You can’t have lunch and not visit the downstairs art gallery. Housed in the cavernous basement-type space, the gallery at Cavalli showcases local artists. A platform for public retail art and sculptures, the unique use of lighting simulates a skylit ceiling.
More info:
- Average price of meals: Set menu from R590 - R995
- The restaurant is available for private dining and picnics
- Address: R44 Highway (Strand Road), Stellenbosch
- Visit the website to make a reservation
Second stop: Dinner
Smack bang in the middle of Stellenbosch is Genki. The Japanese tapas and sushi restaurant has been operating since 2009, and judging from the full tables, it’s a favourite haunt for many locals.
Owner Charlene Waite takes pride in ensuring every customer is taken care of. Upon hearing about my dietary requirements (no pork or meat), she explained each dish and its main ingredients.
Genki is well known for the best steamed buns in town. One giant bite of the steamed chicken bao, and that’s a co-sign from me. The fresh bao bun is stuffed with chicken, beetroot, carrots, cucumber and Sriracha sauce, just enough for a little kick at the back of the throat.
The Japanese tapas are chef’s kiss. Edamame, crispy prawns and grilled chicken skewers will make your taste buds dance with delight. The sushi is made from the freshest sustainable fish and seafood. You can tell by the deep colours of the salmon and tuna.
Most probably Genki’s biggest upsell is its location. Situated in a courtyard at the corner of Bird and Church Street, I can only imagine how lovely it must be here on a balmy summer day, sitting under the giant oaks.
The restaurant itself is small and cosy inside, great for a relaxed evening meal. And for those not partaking in alcohol, they mix up a mean mocktail. Ask the barman to surprise you with a virgin version.
More info:
- Trading hours: Monday - Saturday. Lunch is served from 11:45am to 3pm. Dinner starts 4:45pm until 9pm
- Average price: Tapas from R50
- Visit the website for further info
Last stop: Breakfast/brunch
That’s right, I’ve saved the best for last. On the sprawling Lanzerac estate, you’ll find the Manor Kitchen.
This is where hotel guests have their breakfast. And to say it’s a breakfast is a huge understatement. The hotel itself is a Stellenbosch landmark, hosting dignitaries and celebrities in its stately mansion. There’s a certain level of quality that the entire estate has to maintain.
The Manor Kitchen’s breakfast offering doesn’t fall short of this. Not by a long shot. As soon as I walk into the restaurant, the massive laangtafel catches my eye. Decked with everything you can think of, from fresh pastries to seasonal fruit, that is but only a taste of what’s to follow.
Breakfast is served daily from 7am to 10:30am. Outside guests are allowed, but booking is essential.
While manifesting room in my tummy from the evening before, a waiter walks over and explains how the menu works, and then takes coffee orders. Bear in mind that most tables are allocated one or more servers.
The customary continental breakfast is available at the laangtafel. That’s boring, and we’re not boring. When at Lanzerac, do as the rich do and languish at your table. People watch. Enjoy the view. Yes, have your cereal, your flat white, your little fruit bowl. But keep space for more. Much more.
A hot breakie consists of the usual suspects: Eggs Benedict. Eggs Florentine. Eggs alles. And then the pièce de résistance. Brunch!
Served in the Manor Kitchen from 11:30am, behold a brunch experience like no other.
Smoked salmon and Hollandaise sauce on a lightly toasted English muffin?
Yes please.
How about a prawn roll with creamy mayo?
Obviously.
Thin slices of wagyu beef on a soft panini?
Why are you even asking?
It’s like an infomercial that doesn’t stop. But wait, there’s more… (Pops a lavender-scented macaron in mouth and calls it a day).
Time Out Tip: Lanzerac also hosts a Gentleman’s Tea every Saturday (2pm - 5pm) in the Craven Lounge.
More info:
- Breakfast is served 7am - 10:30am
- The Weekend Brunch Experience starts at 8am till 1pm, bookings are essential
- Prices start at R950 per person
Cape Town has a thriving gourmand scene, and Stellies is central to that. Many places are happy to meet certain dietary requirements. And no, you don’t have to pair every meal with wine.
Ask the chef, and they’ll suggest alternatives for those who eat halaal or kosher. These establishments are built on giving their guests an experience. Don’t think it’s ever too much effort to say “no wine for me” or ask about dietary concerns.
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