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Review
Arum is a modern Winelands restaurant with a clear brief: cook from the farm and add flavour with flame. “Farm to fire” is how they frame it here, and whether you’re gazing out at the vegetable gardens from your table or admiring the dry-ageing fridge near the kitchens, there’s a very real sense of being close to your food.
It’s elevated cooking, but without pretence or fuss. It’s the smartest table on Boschendal Farm, but also low-key in its approach to polished service and authentic hospitality, which is always on point. Though it’s only been open a few months, it’s sure to become a dining destination in the region.
Arum is the latest outing from chef Peter Tempelhoff — he of FYN fame — and his team, with chef Travis Finch guiding the menu and handling the day-to-day running of the kitchen. It’s a kitchen that works closely with the estate’s farmers, with much of what you see on the menu coming from the farm.
Arum sits in Boschendal’s original werf building, and the design leans into contemporary aesthetics rather than historic farm vibes. That’s thanks to a crack design team: Rotem Shachar and Megan Bond of MR. Design Studio, working alongside architect Jacques Mouton, and under the guidance of acclaimed designer Tristan du Plessis.
There’s a comfortable flow through different spaces, from the heritage room (a delight in winter) through to the garden-facing section. The views here across the Food Garden are superb, with a large terrace if the weather behaves. Also, don’t miss a wander through the pantry section of the restaurant, where a fermentation library and centrepiece dry-ageing fridge put the menu’s meaty focus on full display.
There’s plenty to choose from here, so take it slowly. Perhaps start with the snacks, and in summer the heirloom tomato with salsa verde and a sourdough crumb is a wonderfully fresh opener. While mains are quite meaty (more on that in a moment), the choice of starters shows more depth. I loved the smoky notes and creaminess of the Cape octopus, and will be going back for the hot-smoked Lourensford trout with chorizo sauce. Want steak for starters too? The Angus beef tartare is a must for meat-lovers.
And they are well taken care of in the section dedicated to dry-aged beef. Look beyond the grass-fed fillet to the dry-aged bone-in prime and butcher’s cuts, which are aged for weeks at a time to intensify flavour. They are priced SQ, so if you’re watching your budget, be sure to ask the price first. That said, it’s also the part of the menu that best reflects the restaurant’s “farm-to-fire” identity, so don't be too shy.
But it’s not all about steak. Mains range from ricotta gnudi (the only proper vegetarian main dish) through to farm-reared lamb, pan-roasted kingklip, and a Duroc pork chop from the farm. There are a handful of options for vegetarians, mostly in the side dishes, but, to be honest, you’ll be happiest here as a meat-eater.
Come thirsty, is my advice. The guiding hand behind the drinks is Jennifer Hugé, beverage director for FYN Group, and she’s assembled a concise selection of wines centred on Boschendal, along with a few superb exclusives. The Arum Special Series features five cultivars that will delight any dedicated oenophile. The Sémillon (from old Franschhoek vines) and Alicante Bouschet (a rarity in SA) are two of the most striking. There’s also a fun collection of cocktails that tap into all that the area has to offer, from Boschendal’s fruit orchards to local chilli oil.
Farm-to-table has become something of a buzzword in the Winelands, but at Arum, Tempelhoff and Finch deliver on the promise. And then some. The à la carte menu means you can pace your meal (no endless multi-course tasting journeys) and the authentic welcome will have you feeling right at home. The setting is beautiful, the service slick, and the food unfailingly good. While the Boschendal Deli is fine for a quick bite to keep hunger pangs at bay, for a proper dining experience, Arum is the way forward on this estate.
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