If you made me choose, I’d have to say it was the duck liver parfait. No, no, it was the chocolate cream. Or perhaps the lamb scrumpet.
Truth is, it was always hard to pin down my favourite dish at Farro when it was the destination restaurant on Gabrielskloof wine estate. But, as much as I love Alex Windebank’s cooking, 90 minutes was always a bit of a trek for lunch. So, sing hallelujah, foodies were delighted to hear that in October 2025, Farro packed up its country home to set up shop in a charming Victorian building in Gardens.
The Backstory
Windebank – and his wife, Eloise, who runs Farro front-of-house – honed their skills at Polpo in London, turning out upscale Venetian plates amid the buzz of Soho. When they relocated to Johannesburg and opened Farro, it became a cult destination in Illovo, as loved for its cocktails as its cuisine. And, the space was a vibe! Covid forced the restaurant to close, and a brief period in corporate life wasn’t to their taste, leading them to relaunch Farro at Gabriëlskloof wine estate in 2022. There, it developed into a popular destination restaurant, drawing regulars willing to travel to the Overberg.
But in October 2025, the couple returned Farro to its urban roots by opening in a cosy Victorian terrace in Gardens. And my, oh my, you should book.
The Vibe
In a word, sophisticated. Unlike the country-casual vibe of Gabrielskloof, their new city address is a place where you’ll want to dress up just a little. It’s an elegant space – art on the walls, fine linen on the tables – that expects a little more from diners. But there’s no formality here, thanks to Eloise’s consistently warm hospitality and efficient yet friendly staff.
It’s an intimate space too, with three rooms and only 26 seats. Through the front door is the cosy bar, where the window banquette is the ideal spot for a pre-dinner martini or negroni. The cocktail list is concise, but built on quality spirits.
Upstairs (no lift, so tricky for those with mobility issues) are two dining rooms, all with wooden floors, high ceilings, and Victorian charm.
The Food
Unlike the à la carte approach at Gabrielskloof, the menu at Farro is a focused five-course chef’s menu that starts with delicious focaccia and playful ‘snacks’: a seasonal tart, house pickles, and Windebank’s renowned savoury beignets.
What I loved most about each plate here is the considered simplicity of each dish, where flavour takes centre stage, and there are no unnecessary elements simply thrown in for show. Cappellacci (pasta) is all about the texture of the pasta against the flavours of pumpkin, sheep’s milk yoghurt, and wild garlic. A fillet of kabeljou swims on a tide of tartare cream. Delicious as it is, it’s really – as Elose admitted – just an excuse to eat the deliciously crispy pot roast potato alongside. The fillet of Karoo wagyu with green peppercorn sauce offers an elegant twist on a steakhouse favourite, while the dessert of tonka bean parfait will delight anyone who loved that chocolate cream.
In sync with the more refined space, there’s an elevation to the plating and presentation here, while Windebank’s focus on flavour, flavour, flavour shines through in his plates of modern European cuisine.
Vegetarian and Pescatarian options are available, with advance notice, but they cannot cater to vegan or dairy-free guests.
The Drinks
Start with a cocktail or a glass of bubbles, if only to give yourself time to properly peruse the wine list. It’s a compact selection, but features a wonderfully diverse collection of labels and producers, many of which are almost impossible to find.
What’s more, it categorises wines by vibe rather than cultivar. If you’re after something 'Crushable', try the Verdelho from Lourens Family Wines. ‘Textured’ wines range from Rocking Horse to Age of Grace Viognier, while the Rall Red is justifiably described as 'Big, Bold and Beautiful’. Even better, all these options are available by the glass, so you can mix and match with each course. Need some assistance? Eloise is on hand and knows her stuff.
Why Go?
If you loved the Windebanks' approach to food and service at previous incarnations of Farro, you’ll feel right at home. If it’s your first taste, you’ll be delighted with the warm welcome and plates that offer refined dining without the foams and fuss too often used to justify the price of tasting menus.
Speaking of price... the five-course set menu at Farro costs R1000 per person. Add some wine and a few cocktails, and you’re looking at R3000 for dinner for two. So no, this isn't a cheap night out, but considering the quality of food, wine, and service, it’s money well spent. Looking for a date-night destination in Cape Town? You won’t find much better than Farro.
Time Out Tip
Of the two upstairs dining rooms, the rear space is slightly larger than the front, and can get loud when larger tables are booked. Great for a vibe, but the front room is better for romantic dinners.