Fishmonger

There are plenty of places to find good fish and chips in Cape Town, but often they’re let down by plastic tablecloths and indifferent service, or only offer a simple takeaway menu. The food might be good, but the occasion is forgettable.

The leafy suburb of Newlands might not immediately spring to mind when it comes to finding great seafood, but when you throw in a central location, lovely décor and a restaurateur with decades of experience in the business, you have a restaurant worth seeking out. Say hello to Fishmonger.

The Backstory

Fishmonger may be new to Cape Town, but for once those Joburg foodies are ahead of the game. This is the first Cape Town outpost for a restaurant brand already familiar to many diners in Gauteng, where you’ll find branches in Rosebank, Bryanston and Centurion. That it arrives in Newlands is thanks to owner Aki Hadjipetros, who brings 40 years of restaurant experience to this new venture, adding a much-needed seafood option to a corner of Cape Town filled with its fair share of cosy pubs, coffee shops and Italian eateries. 

In fact, with Fishmonger adding to the menu of restaurants in Newlands, the suburb is turning into quite the foodie hotspot!

The Vibe

Let’s be clear: this might be part of a (small) chain, but it’s not the seafood-chain experience you might have had elsewhere. From the moment you step through the front door, the feeling is upmarket yet relaxed. Modern, with a bit of vintage style. It’s a restaurant of two halves, but the lower section is perhaps my favourite, with cosy booths for four and banquettes along one wall. If you like people-watching, ask for the booth by the window. In summer, there’s a small courtyard shared with Botany Bar and Patina.

It’s upmarket without feeling stuffy. Kids are welcome, but if you dine a little later, you’ll find it’s a fine destination for date night too. In the daytime, it’ll fill with parents grabbing a bite before the school run, no doubt. 

The Food

As you might expect, seafood is the star, and the core of the menu is built around fresh fish, prawns, calamari and shellfish, with enough Mediterranean influence to keep things interesting.

But start with a few small plates. The smoked snoek samoosas are a clever Cape Town touch, served with coriander sauce and red pepper chutney, while the grilled sardines bring a Portuguese accent. Chilli salt squid was excellent, with generous tubes breaded and fried, served atop cardamom mayo and tomato atchar. Cajun squid heads offer a punchier calamari option if you prefer.

Bread with taramosalata comes complimentary to start, but if you are dining in a group, consider a few dips and flatbreads too: chilli feta, beetroot hummus and sun-dried tomato with parmesan all draw on Mediterranean flavours.

In the main courses, Fishmonger really hits its stride.

Line fish is the signature offering, but here you have choices: whole or filleted, oven-baked or grilled. There’s good old hake-and-chips too, but why would you? Here, instead, opt for baby kingklip on the bone, or whole grilled kabeljou to share. You don’t find many restaurants doing whole fish these days, so take advantage. There’s seared tuna, here with an Asian bent, too.

If line fish is the star, calamari and prawns are the supporting cast. And again, Falklands calamari comes with plenty of choice: heads or tubes, grilled or fried, peri or not. Want some prawns with that? They can do that too. If you’re sharing, or just can’t decide, then one of the platters is the obvious move. There’s sushi too, which would make a great starter. Next time.

Not everything comes from the sea. The menu makes room for beef and chicken off the grill, while a Kids Menu will keep even the pickiest youngster happy. 

Desserts keep things comfortably familiar, from chocolate fondant to tiramisu and a milk tart panna cotta. My crème brûlée had great custard but was let down by uneven caramel sugar on top.

The Drinks

Ah, bureaucracy. Got to love it. There’s a full wine list listed, but for now their liquor licence is ‘in the mail’, so it’s BYO. Call ahead to confirm.

Why Go?

Fishmonger fills a real gap in this part of the southern suburbs. It’s got all the charm of that friendly neighbourhood eatery, with a welcome dash of style. Service is as friendly as you could ask for, and regulars will probably be on a first-name basis with the staff before long. And with few great seafood restaurants in the area, Fishmonger is ticking all the right boxes.