Hesheng

When Hesheng changed hands in 2023, regulars had reason to worry. For years, the unassuming little restaurant on Sea Point Main Road had built a fiercely loyal following around the cooking of Zeng Meie – known simply as ‘Ma’ – who was as famous for her taciturn (to put it kindly) service as for her handmade dumplings.

The new owners, who had worked alongside Ma before taking over, did the smartest thing possible: they changed very little. The service is a little warmer than before, but the dining room is little changed – still no-frills to speak of – and the menu remains as extensive as it is delicious. And, most importantly, the xiao long bao are still good enough to justify a journey across town.

The backstory

Hesheng has been part of Cape Town’s Chinese restaurant scene for more than a decade. Ma became something of a local legend, not least for the dumplings and noodles made from scratch in the kitchen.

Although the restaurant was sold, little has changed, and Hesheng remains one of the most dependable places in Cape Town for handmade dumplings, noodles and Chinese dishes that are a welcome change from your typical ‘sweet-and-sour ' fare.

The vibe 

Hesheng is not about to win any décor awards. And regulars love it that way.

Step inside from the busy Main Road strip and the dining room is much as you’d find in a backstreet of Hong Kong or Beijing: bright lighting, tables crammed in and a waving golden cat on the counter. It’s not the space for fine napery (here it’s a box of napkins on the table) or fine stemware. Come for the food.    

The food 

There are many places to begin on the Hesheng menu, but also just the one: xiao long bao.

Hesheng's soup dumplings remain the signature dish: pleated parcels of dough wrapped around pork and hot, savoury broth. They (10 per portion) arrive in a bamboo basket and a cloud of steam. Insider tip? Resist the temptation to pop one whole into your mouth unless you enjoy second-degree burns on your tongue. The pro technique is to put one in a spoon, pierce the skin slightly to let a little steam escape, sip the broth that trickles out, and then slurp the dumpling. Repeat. 

But don't stop at the soup dumplings. 

The pan-fried pork and leek dumplings are a different kind of tasty: crisp and bronzed underneath, softer and chewy above. Grab some of that chilli crisp and soya sauce for an extra kick.

The spring onion pancake is another regular order: uncomplicated, crisp-edged comfort food, with flaky layers, savoury spring onion, and a healthy kick of salt. To balance that, get adventurous with the seaweed salad, where the briny freshness cuts through richness. Can’t do seaweed? The cucumber salad is also excellent, bringing crunch and tang to the table.

Then there are the noodles. Spicy beef flank noodle soup shows that Hesheng is about more than dumplings, with a bowl brimming with tender beef, chilli and warm aromatics. Keep going, and you’ll find plenty to tempt you: Mapo tofu, Sichuan beef, hot-and-sour potato slices, beef shin salad and wonton soup. And yes, there’s the obligatory sweet-and-sour pork for anyone who isn’t feeling adventurous. But you’ll be missing out, so push the boat out a little.

Chinese dining is communal, not laying claim to your own main course, so the best strategy is to bring a few people and order a whole collection of plates to share. 

The drinks

Drinks are secondary to the food here. A small choice of beers (Tsingtao is a good option if they have it) alongside a handful of wines and soft drinks. If you want something special, best to bring it yourself. Order the jasmine tea if you don’t want alcohol.

The verdict

The owners may have changed, but Hesheng certainly hasn’t. The menu is intriguing, adventurous and extremely well-priced. This is as authentic as you’re likely to get without a plane ticket.