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Cape Town has never been short of neighbourhood cafés and coffee shops, but when it comes to the kind of experience that would give NYC’s famous Katz’s Deli a run for its money? Well, those are harder to find.
For more than a decade, Kleinsky’s in Sea Point has perhaps been the city’s most reliable answer to that particular hunger pang, with a loyal following flocking to their Regent Road store for hand-rolled bagels, proper pastrami and perhaps the best rugelach in town.
It’s a formula that worked so well that they expanded to Johannesburg and London. And now they have come around the mountain, opening a brand-new branch at the High Constantia Centre, bringing bagels, breakfasts, ‘noshes’ and New York-style deli classics to one of Cape Town’s leafiest suburbs.
The Backstory
Kleinsky’s started out in 2014 as a small Sea Point eatery, with brothers Adam and Joel Klein drawing inspiration from the Jewish delis of New York. But this was no cut-and-paste; instead, the plan was to create a Cape Town version of a classic Manhattan deli: old-school recipes and cultural memory, served with a contemporary twist and local attitude.
Despite the expansion, Kleinsky’s holds firmly to its founding principles of getting the basics right before letting loose with a little menu creativity. The bagels are still hand-rolled, slow-fermented, boiled in malted water and baked. The pastrami is still made just the way it was at the start. The Russian dressing is made in-house. And yes, the Reuben balls are just as good as ever.
The Vibe
The magic of Kleinsky’s has been giving each store its own character while still feeling part of the same tapestry. In Constantia, the leafy setting is a clear departure from the bustle of Sea Point, with al fresco tables and a more laid-back suburban rhythm of ladies that lunch and people fresh from a walk in the nearby green belts.
Indoors, the Kleinsky’s visual signatures are there too: the art wall is a riot of imagery with subtle Constantia clues, while frosted glass, cosy booths and the signature chevron woodwork at the takeaway counter leave you in no doubt that this is a Kleinsky’s through and through.
The Food
The Constantia menu sticks close to the Kleinsky’s playbook, and that’s no bad thing. The bagels remain the headline act, whether you’re going classic with smoked salmon, wasabi cream cheese and avo (the California) or leaning into something heartier with Norm’s classic free-range chicken schnitzel with honey mustard mayo. The L.e.o. is a breakfast classic: smoked salmon, scrambled egg and caper mayo.
"We bake our own bagels in a three-day process," explains Adam. "We do a sponge on the first day and let that ferment overnight. Then we make the final dough and let that rise overnight in the refrigerator. Only after that is it boiled and baked. It’s a labour of love."
Speaking of breakfast, you’ll find the full range here, from French toast to loaded avo. I’ll be back for the eggs Benedict on a potato latke. The hot pastrami on rye remains one of the signature sandwiches (although co-owner Adam prefers the Reuben, with sauerkraut and melted Swiss cheese), while their hot dogs (in-house frankfurter recipe, served on a New England-style bun) are a great takeaway option: the classic won’t disappoint, but it’s their take on a Banh Mi hot dog that really shoots the lights out.
The real menu change in Constantia is the addition of – and I love this name – ‘Big Schnitz’: a 300g panko-crumbed extra-large schnitzel, offered straight-up as the Big Classic, or as a ‘Big Parm’ (cue mozzarella), Big Greek or Big Caesar. It’s aimed squarely at the early-evening trade, which is unique to Kleinsky’s Constantia.
To finish: The multi-layered Russian honey cake is superb, but you’ll never go wrong with a rugelach (a cream-cheese pastry biscuit) or two. I’ll have to go back to try the cheese blintzes or New York cheesecake.
The Drinks
Sea Point locals know all about the Bloody Mary Elixir (secret ingredient? pickle brine) for Sunday mornings, but you’ll also find mimosas for the morning and a martini (secret ingredient? pickle brine) for the evening. In between, there’s a small choice of craft brews and wines. The list, Adam says, is expanding, so watch this space and hope for a better focus on Constantia estates.
Why Go?
After more than a decade in the business, Kleinsky’s remains one of Cape Town’s best-loved and deeply respected food brands, and the Constantia opening gives the southern suburbs easy access to the proper bagels, slow-made pastrami and the easy-going charm of this Cape classic.
Time Out Tip
Go early if you’re visiting at the weekend. Constantia loves a breakfast table, and this branch has all the makings of a neighbourhood regular. Also, leave with a bag or two of their frozen bagels for lunch the next day.