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Review
At DUSK, in the heart of Stellenbosch, executive chef Callan Austin has made a name for himself with a bold menu of refined cuisine, conceptual plates, and adventurous tasting menus. But Plenitude is not that. Instead, although it is located inside Majeka House boutique hotel, Plenitude leans firmly into the realm of a neighbourhood restaurant. The kind of place where you’ll return every other week, and the staff will know exactly how you like your martini. It’s still early days, but Plenitude is starting to find its feet out on the floor and in the kitchen.
Plenitude – which means ‘abundance’ – is part of a broader refresh at Majeka House, which was recently taken over by The Living Journey Collection, a group that runs hotels across the Cape. Austin oversees creative direction, but it’s chef Orlando Reid who leads the kitchen day-to-day and is most likely cooking your dinner.
His goal is straightforward: a restaurant with the style of a small hotel but the welcoming feel of your local eatery. And on the menu? A choice of approachable plates, elevated just enough to make it feel like a treat.
There are two spaces at Plenitude, and where you dine will depend on your mood and perhaps the weather. The small terrace is a delight, especially at lunchtime when you’ll want to be out in the warm Winelands air looking over the small gardens.
Come evening, head indoors for a more refined dinner setting, with white tablecloths, fine stemware, and a rather-grand piano dominating the space. It’s a large room, but curtains divide the space, and there’s plenty of room between the tables, so you’ll never feel on top of one another.
The playlist of crooning R&B got a bit tedious over the evening, but happily the low volume meant it didn’t ruin the mood.
Reid’s menu is sensibly divided into day and night options. For lunch, it’s about approachable dishes that can be enjoyed after a morning wine tasting or over a casual catch-up with friends. The menu is wide-ranging, and includes much of what you'll find at dinner, with plenty of other options: think flatbread with lamb ribs, or a salad of seasonal summer tomatoes.
But I was there for dinner, where you’ll find a more focused à la carte menu with a handful of choices for starters, mains, and desserts. I’m a sucker for beef tartare, but the promise of Asian flavours and seared tuna was too tempting to ignore, and I was pleased with the fragrant (hello, curry leaf) dressing and the clever interplay of spice with fresh notes from green apple and basil. I’d have preferred the tuna cut to be more substantial, but as a plate, it worked well.
Mains are hearty and range from roasted line fish with prawn and potato croquette to an excellent vegetarian dish of cauliflower fragrant with North African spices, tahini emulsion, and hummus. The lamb belly with grilled greens and a potato dauphinoise was perfect on a cooler night and paired well with a Merlot from the solid wine list.
There are only two desserts – and a cheese course – to finish with, but the chocolate mille feuille is a great choice if you still have room.
Start the evening with a pre-dinner aperitif in the Majeka House bar. It’s an opulent space that quickly lends a sense of occasion to dinner.
You could order another cocktail for the dinner table, but rather tap into the excellent wine list, which travels far and wide across the Cape Winelands (not only Stellenbosch, which is well represented here too). There’s a good choice by the glass, and all are priced very reasonably.
If you’re staying at Majeka House (a charming base for exploring the Winelands), it’s a no-brainer to stay in for at least one night to enjoy the fare from Austin and Reid. If you’re in the area and looking for a good meal from chefs who know what they’re doing, Plenitude is also an excellent choice. Prices are pitched to appeal to locals as much as international guests, with mains ranging from R165 to R225 and starters topping out at R145. That’s excellent value for good restaurants in the Winelands.
With the hotel setting and residential locale, this isn’t (at least at the moment) a late-night dining destination. Aim for an early aperitif and head to the table by 7pm to ensure you’re not the last to leave. That’s good news if you’re exploring the area and want to head straight from a tour to dinner.
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