Smeul

Paarl has long been the home of the Western Cape’s most prestigious private schools. That’s what it’s known for. Oh, and for birthing some of the country’s greatest rugby players (Handré Pollard, we see you, and we salute you).

For decades, it’s struggled to keep up with Stellenbosch’s cosmopolitan vibe. Stellies has thrown its marketing budget at its boutique wineries and award-winning restaurants. Paarl has brandy and that massive granite rock. 

In recent years, the town has made its mark as a premier wine destination. But the Boland dorp wants more. It wants to claim the tourism crown in the Winelands. SMEUL officially places it in the race for that crown.

Tucked in the original cellar of the newly revived Zomerlust Boutique Hotel in Paarl, the restaurant signals chef Kevin Grobler’s bold return. A serious glow-up for Boland fine dining.

For the Paarl local, SMEUL (Afrikaans for “smoulder”) is more than a restaurant; it’s a statement. The kitchen runs entirely on open flame and wood-fired Dover stoves. No shortcuts. Just fire. Instinct and skill.

Chef Kevin’s resume is a testament to his tenacity. A stint at Michelin-starred Restaurant JAN in Nice, Delaire Graff, and SCAPE has cemented his presence on the local and international foodie scene.

However, SMEUL is his most confident, most unapologetic expression yet.

If the woody aroma drifting from Zomerlust Boutique Hotel in Paarl’s main road doesn’t entice you, the contemporary, quirky decor grounded in the hotel’s heritage will.

The Backstory

The 1792 heritage property was meticulously revived from its B&B days. Paarl native and interior consultant Misi Overturf oversaw the interior design. 

Owners Wikus Lategan and Wayne Williams, both seasoned in large-scale property, originally planned a quick flip. Then Zomerlust did what iconic buildings do. It refused to be casual. 

“Collaborating with a culinary expert of Kevin’s calibre was a natural extension of our deep-rooted passion for food, and from our very first meeting, our intentions aligned,” said Wayne. 

The Vibe

Think heritage, but make it sexy. 

Dining here is a full-blown experience, with crisp white linens and gleaming Riedel glassware. Original clay bricks stay exposed. The food and decor compete for your attention in an understated yet dramatic way.

At first, the cavernous dining area appears stifling. But then the warmth of the natural wooden beams and the wall sconces create a welcoming glow. 

Misi dug deep to create a curated dining encounter. Most of the original pieces have either been used as is or refurbished. The interior designer has a preference for the Arts and Crafts aesthetic. In SMEUL’s case, it works by being interwoven with the Boland’s layered, natural palette. 

References to the endurance of the small yet mighty worker bee are sprinkled across the hotel, from the exterior murals to the hexagon floor tiles. It’s amazing to witness how Misi brought the interpretation to life.

The Food

Chef Kevin doesn’t shy away from taking risks. That’s his culinary superpower. He’s developed a menu that is tight and deliberate. 

We were treated to a selection of starters on sharing plates. Bear in mind that the restaurant has an à la carte menu. 

The flash-cured linefish and the paper-thin slithers of Angus beef carpaccio served as starters were melt-in-your-mouth delish. The sprinkling of onion lashes accompanying the carpaccio created flavoursome depth.

The mains consisted of the signature 600g Assiette of Beef with a generous side of beef tartare. Not in the mood for meat? Chef Kevin ensures the veggies finally get their main character moment. Cauliflower risotto with dukkah-spiced hazelnuts and saffron foam is a standout.

Three perfectly executed finales rounded off the set menu. Dessert was citrussy, clean, and sharp. The pumpkin-infused Basque cheesecake was a definite showstopper. Rich. Sweet. Slightly salty. 

The Drinks

While SMEUL doesn’t have a dedicated wine-and-food pairing, their staff are skilled in recommending a suitable wine or drink from their extensive list. Guests are also invited to bring their own wine; corkage on the first bottle is complimentary.

Why Go?

Paarl is making a name for itself as an up-and-coming fine dining destination. You’ll be spoilt for choice in the main road alone. 

There’s something fresh and exciting about SMEUL. You see it in the meticulous attention to every detail and in that satisfied belch once your fork hits the plate.

With starters starting at R150 and mains averaging at R300, you’ll be pressed to visit. But SMEUL takes primal fire cooking and elevates it. And THAT experience is worth your rands. 

Time Out Tip

SMEUL has an intimate private dining room accommodating up to 16 guests. And those who stay more than two nights at the hotel have the pleasure of a private dinner in the hotel’s secluded garden.