There are some bold flavours, and even bolder claims, coming from the newly relaunched Urchin at the Hyatt Regency Cape Town.
Under Chef Marcus Gericke, the space and its menu have been reimagined into a Western Cape showcase, a Tour de Force.
This is a tasting menu with a point of view, and Gericke isn’t shy about it.
"This menu is not a fusion with other countries' food cultures, it's all about South African flavours, specifically the food of the Cape," Gericke states. “Show me where this is being done, I'd like them to come for me,” he challenges.
And he's bringing receipts - after undertaking a 1,627km road trip across the province in three short days (complete with a tempered chocolate map) to source the ingredients and conceptualise the 9-course Journey tasting menu.
The vibe
Located on the elevated dining floor level at the CBD hotel, just off Buitengracht Street, this former conferencing space is now the intimate, polished dining room of Urchin.
Wrapped in large-scale portraits of the epic Journey that Gericke took less than a month before launching the new tasting menu in November.
Images of Kalk Bay Harbour, the dusty Karoo hinterlands and the beautiful calm of the Garden Route, along with some of the unique characters like the fish sellers, add to the visual story of this tasting experience.
Gericke sees supporting local small businesses, like Kalk Bay's Aunty Ashmita, instead of going through a third chain provider for their daily catch, as part of the Journey narrative.
There is no dry ice here, which he believes would only pushes up the cost of the menu. Just an intentional selection of ingredients that bring the heritage of the region for diners to experience in the best possible way.
There is certainly a sense of ceremony as the meny unfolds, although not stuffy, as Urchin staff take you through each dish to evoke a sense of place. The service is warm and considerate attention to detail comes through naturally.
I loved how even the old-fashioned bone-handled cutlery, the kind most of our grandmas prized in their homes and kept for special occasions, adds memory to the dining experience.
The food
This 9-course tasting menu lives up to its name as it takes you on an extensive tour of Cape flavours, elevated with the precision and a deeply engraved story this SA Chef of the Year for 2024 is claiming as a signature style.
Opening with the “voorhappie” of snoek, meebos and curry leaf - the snoek pâté is delicate but familiar, as is the meebos with that unmistakable jaw-tingling acidity.
The bread course adds an extra layer to the Cape Flavour story. Said to use the oldest recorded Stellenbosch brown bread recipe, baked with Urchin’s 20-year-old sourdough starter named Pete, and served with jam, salted farm butter, you'll set aside any reservations of skipping this course.
A standout dish is the Paternoster Crayfish. Treated with restraint, its sweetness takes centre stage, while still hinting at that Weskus fire cooking, softened under a moreish lemon butter.
A cold pickled fish starter balances Cape Malay tradition in a silky, yet spicy sauce, paired with fresh yellowtail tartar and crunchy, house-made slangetjies to represent the pre-frying of the fish. It is presented in a refined plating with a swirl of avocado to ensure the crackles don't become soggy. My traditional expectations of pickled fish did look for a more sour flavour profile, but this version is, of course, fine-dining worthy.
Braised oxtail with samp and fynbos atchar delivers a refined huiskos comfort, while the Karoo lamb chops are served unapologetically South African and diners are encouraged to ditch the cutlery and eat with their hands. The dish is finished with a coriander, tomato bredie sauce and sweet pickled onion.
Dessert is pure nostalgia with milk tart, then malva, sago and custard plated in homage to the hug of Table Mountain and Lion's Head around the city bowl. A parting trio of padkos favourites like peppermint crisp chocolate, hertzoggie and klapperys are a delightful touch, before literally rolling out the door.
Time Out Tip: If you want the Urchin experience but not the full 9-course menu, you have the option to choose the Navigator Menu, an à la carte option that allows you to experience Cape flavours.
The drinks
Both pairings are thoughtfully matched, and the mocktail option is surprisingly compelling.
Wine pairing (R500): Bold pinotages from Rijks, the Cape Southern Chardonnay from Atlas Swift, and Constantia classics like Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc keep the journey anchored in local terroir.
Mocktail pairing (R400): A Cape Lemon Verbena Fizz and a Karoo Herb Highball bring just the right nuance.
Time Out Tip: And if you’re not committing to the full pairing, the bar is more than ready to play. You'll enjoy smart mixology with flavours adapted to match the course in front of you.
Why go?
Because Urchin isn’t just serving a tasting menu. It genuinely looks to honour the food of the Western Cape - putting its people, coastal towns, dorpies and flavours on a worthy pedestal. The service is intentional throughout the evening, rooted in warm heritage instead of theatrics.